Light Aider System (almost) without Daisy Chain

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Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic

G.Lizard

Trad climber

So Cal

Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 4, 2013 - 04:12pm PT

I adapted a couple of Metolius Pocket Aiders and worked out a system where I seldom need a daisy. Instead of a fifi, I use one Spirit 'biner on my belay loop. I could still use a fifi but find the belay loop 'biner much cleaner). I added a spreader bar using an offset electrical conduit fitting. The slight crook keeps it from pinching totally flat against the wall.

The knotted sling on the aider is set up to be just the right length: middle for waist clip, bottom for high step. On steeper stuff I occasionally find it useful to break out a thin daisy to help out--but one is actually faster than two. I keep it stashed like a PAS until needed.

Yes this means I am unclipped briefly while I climb the ladder to clip the sling. I actually find I feel safer utilizing the rope for my main security as in free climbing, not worried about loading a piece with a near static fall on a short daisy. As in Chris' Big Wall video, I realized dropping the daisy is actually hard to do.

I added a spreader bar using an offset electrical conduit fitting. The slight crook keeps it from pinching totally flat against the wall. The whole rig still fits inside the sewn pocket.

In essence, I've moved the few loops I really need from the daisy to the aider. SO much faster and less tangle. So far this seems to be the best light weight system I've found. I see no reason not to use the same system with more beefy aiders.

Anyone see any safety breaches? Please be critical. Any different ideas? Any less bulky ideas?

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber

Toquerville, Utah

Nov 4, 2013 - 05:53pm PT

Nothing new here.

Daisies are rarely useful if you know how to T-off.
They are just for awkward flares, and really dicey stuff like expandos.

Batrock

Trad climber

Burbank

Nov 4, 2013 - 06:14pm PT

I have gone between daisies and no daisies and the more I climb the less I tend to use them. Ron,
what's this T-method you speak of? Maybe I'm already doing it and I just dont know it? I use two aider method and just fifi in to whatever piece or rung in convenient.

G. Lizard
Where in So Cal do you practice? Sounds like you got your system dialed.

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Nov 4, 2013 - 06:29pm PT

Ain't nobody TEEing off that's trying to move fast.

That's for tinkerbolters.

Sweet rig. Dyneema runner/ and real alpine aiders would make that super light.

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber

Toquerville, Utah

Nov 4, 2013 - 07:07pm PT

I would disagree.

It takes no time at all and makes for both a long reach and a stable platform to fire in the next piece.

G.Lizard

Trad climber

So Cal

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2013 - 09:48pm PT

G. Lizard
Where in So Cal do you practice? Sounds like you got your system dialed.

Mostly my property (have a few interesting boulders) and Mt Woodson. Pretty much have every crack type imaginable in the area...even some loose rock and expanding flakes to get me in trouble the other day.