Dolomites 2013; Kleiner Falzaregoturm.

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Messages 1 - 14 of total 14 in this topic

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber

Douglas, WY

Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 28, 2013 - 12:27pm PT

This is actually part II of my ongoing Trip Report; we set out for day #2 at the Cinque Torri, but Mauro Bernardi commented that our selection of climbs were all North facing and after the previous night's snow, would be pretty miserable. He suggested we simply skip my "training climb" program and jump to the Kleiner Falzaregoturm, "via della Guida;" this is a South facing wall and is a real Cortina area "Classic." So...off we went!

Pitch #1 is fairly easy, and is only 60 feet long.

Via della Guida shares a belay stance with the well-known "Comici" route.

The fourth rope length follows a line to a wide crack/chimney which is over come by stemming.

The "slab pitch" is the outstanding lead of the entire trip; 75 degrees, and only 5.5.

The climb shares the final 3 leads with the "Comici" route directly to the summit.

There is a truly distinct summit spire.
Overall ratings: Kleiner Falzaregoturm, via della Guida: 9 leads, 850 feet of climbing, and UIAA IV+ (YDS 5.6/5.7). I personally thought the climb to be overall mostly 5.5, with a couple slightly harder spots at 5.6 and a few moves on pitch 5 that were 5.7-.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Sep 28, 2013 - 12:35pm PT

Very Nice!

Thanks for sharing your limestone fun with us, Rodger!

Blakey

Trad climber

Sierra Vista

Sep 28, 2013 - 02:31pm PT

Rodger,

Looks like fun, the Dollies is a fantastic destination.

Can I ask how you've tied in, it may be me misreading the image, but it looks like the rope is direct tied through the belay loop on your harness?

Steve

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber

Douglas, WY

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2013 - 02:44pm PT

You are indeed correct; this was at Mauro's insistence and it's not my standard method. Since I wasn't leading, it didn't matter as much. I am normally very "anal-retentive" about tie-ins.

Brian in SLC

Social climber

Salt Lake City, UT

Sep 28, 2013 - 03:58pm PT

Great!

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber

Douglas, WY

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2013 - 01:30am PT

Here's another picture of the Falzarego Towers, in profile from the West.

And here's a view from the Falzarego Pass road near the Cinque Torri chairlift station.

For relative scale, an extreme telephoto showing 2 parties on the upper skyline (final 2 pitches).

Fritz

Trad climber

Choss Creek, ID

Oct 2, 2013 - 07:26pm PT

Looks like a great route! Glad you had decent weather to get up it after the snow.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

Oct 2, 2013 - 07:33pm PT

Multipitchiano! Buono!

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber

Douglas, WY

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2013 - 09:13pm PT

Fritz-

The advantage of climbing with the guidebook author!

My last day of climbing was the 16th, and we only did one short route due to rapidly falling temperatures affecting my sprained knee. By mid afternoon, the Cinque Torri were all socked in by clouds, and the snow was really significant that evening. It required the snowplows to get the passes reopened by late afternoon the next day. Most of the other climbs I had planned were not possible afterwards.

SCseagoat

Trad climber

Santa Cruz

Oct 2, 2013 - 09:19pm PT

Yeah Rodger....missed you at FL this year but we got a few climbs in and you're name came up! Miss you...hopefully connect with you sometime this fall...

Susan