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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 3, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
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What is your favorite way?
My favorite way is not to coil the rope bandolier style. (Which potentially induces a twist in the rope with every turn.) Instead it's to flake the excess over my shoulders and then tie off the two-sided pile with a lanyard at the top that's long enough to fix bandolier style.
Anyone else do it this way? I think it's an evolution over coiling for several reasons (1) there isn't any induced twisting; (2) above all its so simple and easy to adjust, unload, etc. via one bandoliered lanyard; (3) with the excess rope flaked largely out front, any backpack rides better.
Then, lastly, with the desired amount payed out, I double figure eight in to a locking biner on the belay loop. Done.
In a couple of days, I hope to try out any variations - ideas or tips - that I hear about in order to improve my system. And to refine my art of rope managing while simuling.
All input welcome.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Keep the distance between he two climbers as close to the length of the rope as possible
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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The best is to use a 30m rope.
If that isn't possible ill wrap it in a mountaineer coil tied off on lockers thru my leg & waist tie in points with an alpine butterfly. I don't use the belay loop. To keep the rope from slipping off I girth hitch it on my back & then front with a dbl length sling. Works great to keep the rope from moving around.
As for managing the rope ur climbing on I belay with a Grigri. When the rope runs out & I start climbing I leave the Grigri on. This way I can take in rope if my partner is stopped & I'm at a uncomfortable stance & want to move up, then u can pay out slack when u are at a good stance & they are moving again. This really helps me because i dont need to focus so much on moving at the exact same speed as my buddy. I usually have about 2 feet of slack on my side too in case he needs a bit of rope quickly. This also works great if your partner needs an actual belay at some point. Just be aware of the slack u are pulling in & that u don't step on it or that it doesn't get stuck below u in a crack or something. Have fun be safe!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2013 - 11:51pm PT
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Jaybro and DMT,
When you simul, you don't ever change rope length?
In an alpine setting, say, sometimes you're going to want to work with varying amounts, 50' for instance or 100' between you, for any of a number of reasons, say to control rope stretch over a crux or ledge, no?
Ron, two strands out doesn't seem unwieldy to you?
RyanD, thanks for the grigri tip, I'll give that a go as a variation.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oh, & don't fall! If one climber is more likely to fall than the other they should be leading or YGD fer sure.
I've folded the rope a few times Ron & the only problem with that is then u are climbing on 2 ropes & unless u are British it just feels wierd :-)
Yeah my point with the Grigri makes what Jaybro & DMT said much easier IMO.
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Some Random Guy
climber
Under a Little Pink Umbrella
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take a 60 m skinny rope and tie in half way. you are both tied to both sides and now it is a double. second uses atc to control amount of rope paid out like ryan said. same type system as ryan describes but with atc. do whatever you like with excess rope on slack side of atc. now go climb ;)
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Barbarian
climber
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I find it much easier to manage the rope while simul-soloing.
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pell
Trad climber
Sunnyvale
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When simul climbing I carry a micro traxion (or two if my partner have another one). After an awkward/slippery/thin move on lead I place a piece ASAP, attach the micro traxion to the rope and clip it to the pro. Now my follower can more or less safely fall from the hard move.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I like to fold the rope in thirds, (each partner caries 1/3 with 1/3 between them) each member has enough extra to escape the belay and perhaps get to the partner if something happens..
that said, the team should move with the rope as out as possible, each slowing to allow the other to get over difficult sections.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Footloose, I have never shortened the rope in this application, except to set up a belay as needed. Though you could come across a time where that would be useful, in general the goal is to eliminate all unnecessary steps!
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