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sirhctrebor
Trad climber
Austin
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 3, 2006 - 03:50pm PT
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Any ideas? If you are hanging off of your clove hitch at hanging belay, then how do you weight a sling to release the biner of the Reverso (to feed the climber rope)? Obviously, you could yard up on your anchor one handed and quickly clip into a shorter draw attached to the Reverso biner and then weight it to the point that you sit back on your clove, but that seems troublesome. Remeber your other hand is on a munter at your harness to control the rope that you feed back through once the Reverso is released. I guess you could just pull hard with your arm on the sling and not actually weight it with body weight, but if you want to feed a good bit of rope I can see someone getting pretty pumped. Just wondering if anyone knows a trick for this...
chris...
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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You know what?
YOU should have left that stupid perverso at home.
With the Putzl Perverso it is bet to practice catch and release, so that once you set the damned thing free, you'll never have to deal with it again.
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jackass
climber
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attach it at the lowest point possible at the belay, and run a directional through a higher point.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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It's fairly rare that a partner will be hanging free and unable to termporarily unweight the rope, and better to use a gri-gri when that's possible.
But...The AMGA website has an illustrated tutorial on releasing the reverso in these circumstances and I can't imagine that Petzel doesn't. It a techical PITA and nobody is going to describe it very perfectly with words. Basically you rig a little mechanical advantage type rig to hoist the device into reversing mode.
You'll have to do a search cause I don't have the link handy
Peace
Karl
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TimM
Trad climber
somewhere on the Sierra Eastside
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It's way hard to release when fully weighted. Karl's right in that you need some mechanical advantage. The way that I've done it is to untie a spare cordlette and run the cord from the reverso to a biner on a piece of my anchor, thru a biner on my harness, back thru another the biner on a piece of my anchor and then back to my harness where it's tied off. Hopefully, you have enough slack in your tie-in so that you can sit back and weight the cord releasing the reverso. I like to backup the rope with a prussik or some other friction hitch so that when the reverso is unweighted my partners rope doesn't zip thru the device. Because of all these shannigans, I prefer to use a GriGri or Cinch to belay up the second and *not* use a reverso.
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sirhctrebor
Trad climber
Austin
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2006 - 11:43pm PT
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Well, perhaps I wasn't clear enough: I fully understand how to release the Reverso when you are at a ledge where you can stand or at least move around a bit. As makes sense and is also clearly illustrated at the Petzl website, you simply redirect a sling from your "friction" biner through the anchor and attach it to your harness with another biner). Then, you weight it by pulling back or stepping back and then releasing the "friction" biner (I've done this several times with partners and it's quite easy). But, if you are at a hanging belay, you do not have the ability to move backwards to release the biner with your weight; you are cloved into the anchor. Check out the Petzl website. The illustrations have someone on a ledge with a couple meters of slack between them and the anchor. They have plenty of room to step back while attached to the sling that is redirected to the "friction" biner. How can you do this if you can't move back? BTW, when using double ropes, the gri gri, although I love it in some environments, is pretty useless, as well as heavy for alpine routes since you don't often find opportunities to rap with it (meaning you are also bringing a plate or eight). And, compared to the Kong Gi Gi, it seems to be pretty proficient, especially for bringing up two climbers.
chris...
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jackass
climber
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make the redirected sling shorter than your tie in length and let the weight of your body release the reverso by clipping in to it and then leaning back, or run the sling longer but not too long so that you can slide one of your feet through and step down (stand up) on the sling to release the reverso.
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sirhctrebor
Trad climber
Austin
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2006 - 12:27am PT
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Ahh, the foot idea... that's good if your sling is long enough; you could probably get it at least down to your knee if you can't bring your leg up that high...
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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it's really not that hard, especially after you have tried it a time or 2. you just girth a sling around the point on the reverso you would want to pull up on (can work w/ the biner, may be easier on the ring itself), run the sling through a high point, clip it in shorter to your harness than whatever you are hanging from, and ease your weight back. because the device is auto blocking, you have 2 hands free to set it up, and you can actually control the rate you feed slack by how much you weight the sling (one hand on the brake rope, one on the anchor, pulling yourself on/off the sling). really no big deal, unless you happen to be w/out a sling or some substitute.
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