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Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 6, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
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I am trying to find out who did the first few repeats of the Jack of Diamonds route on Longs Peak and if they took photos.
I need some image support to discuss this route as Layton and Royal were moving so fast and light that they didn't carry a camera.
Contact information for the second and third ascent party would be greatly appreciated to help the Diamond Reflections Kor memorial to be as complete as possible historically.
More on that gathering here....
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2126118&msg=2129869#msg2129869
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2013 - 11:41am PT
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Info bump...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Actually they did carry a camera, and they took a few photos,
very few. Royal gave me one. It's in black and white, of Layton,
near the top. I'd have to dig around for it, but it's here somewhere.
It probably needs a good scan. I might possibly have used it
in Spirit of the Age, can't right now recall....
Not that it's real important, but I was the leader of their
support party, at age 16, haha. Paul Mayrose, Bob Bradley, and others
were there, though Layton and Royal needed no support party (except
as a national park technicality). I watched the entire one-day ascent.
It was a marvelous display of competence by perhaps the best team
in the country at the time. This was before nuts and Friends, so everything
was a piton, taking much longer. With today's modern gear they might
well have made the route in three or four hours....
This was 1963, although in the original Beyond the Vertical Royal's write-up has it as '64, a small error.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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There's a photo on p.121 of Spirit of the Age of "Kor leading on the Diamond".
It doesn't say whether it is D1 or Jack of Diamonds.
It's much nicer quality than the D1 photos in Climb!, though.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2013 - 10:07am PT
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Pat-Thanks for the clarification on the camera. I hope that I can find some of the FA photos but am trying to get some image support from the second or third ascent teams. No repeat as of 1971.
A route description from the 1971 Walter Fricke guide.
I wonder of that route description ever surfaced again...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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That description from the guide doesn't sound entirely accurate....
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rimeiceusa
climber
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I've heard of tales, perhaps Jeff Bevan & Chip Salon did an early ascent.
Chip long gone & maybe Jeff is on ST. Talk to Covington, Culp or Komito.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
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Same set of questions about the Enos Mills Wall SA.
Anyone know the folks that repeated this one early?
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Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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