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| Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic |
Matt's
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 16, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
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Thinking out loud here-- I am imagining an aid-climbing device that is a hybrid between a cam hook and a piton-- the business end of the device would be shaped to fit into a pin scar (i.e. be piton-shaped), but it would be the camming action that would hold it in the scar (as opposed to hammering it in place). You would have to have a couple different sizes, to fit the common pin scar types.
Would this work? Am I crazy?
thanks
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Apr 16, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
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They may have already been invented....
Camp Ball Nuts
http://www.camp-usa.com/products/climbing-protection/ball-nuts.asp
For the slim and grim. Invented in 1987 by John Middendorf and originally brought to market as Lowe Balls, these have become the secret weapon of many aid and trad climbers. These little wonders will work in small parallel-sided cracks where the only other option is pounding a piton. Ball Nuts also work in pin scars and small flares where cams simply won’t fit. Since they weigh so little, many advanced trad climbers keep a #2 and #3 on their rack at all times.
And cams fit too.
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Matt's
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
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no, not like a ballnut... this would be a piece for upward movement only, not for protection. Basically, you would be hand-placing a piton-shaped piece of metal into a pin-scar, and the cam-hooking action would hold it securely in place
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Matt's
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2013 - 05:42pm PT
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and I am perfectly happy if someone were to steal this idea!!
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fat-n-sassy
Social climber
San Francity, CA
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Apr 16, 2013 - 05:46pm PT
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you
are
gonna
DIE
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Apr 16, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
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Just take some pitons, weld to it a perpendicular rod with an eye in one or both ends. Then test and try not to die.
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Matt's
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
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"i picture an angle with a long cam lever at 90 degrees, instead of a biner hole"
EXACTLY!
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| Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic |
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