Third Pitch of Lurking Fear Variation Question

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micronut

Trad climber

Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 11, 2013 - 06:02pm PT

Question.

We did the first three pitches of Lurking Fear last month, including the Window Pane Flake, which was cool, but a bit of a pain and totally filled with smelly bat/rat dung. A total brown guanofest.

When we actually go for the whole wall send, does the third pitch variation require free climbing, or could a dude get up it just in aidersand with a normal sized cheater stick? Thinking this could save some time when fixing and hauling the first three on day one, especially since we have already done the Window Pane.

Thanks Taco. See you in the Valley tomorrow? We'll be there in training mode. Look for the FJ and say hello if you see us out and about.

Scott

Elcapinyoazz

Social climber

Joshua Tree

Apr 11, 2013 - 06:09pm PT

It's been about 10 years since I was up there, but I don't recall it being particularly hard free climbing, maybe 10- or something. I freed it, as a low-5.10 max leader, although not in good freeclimbing style (I'm sure I hung, probably more than once, but didn't fall).

You won't have any issues with it, just free it, and it speeds things up a bit. Go for it. Those finger cracks higher up are bitchin!

micronut

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2013 - 06:29pm PT

Thanks El Cap, but I don't want to free it! I'm not a 5.10 climber, especially with a wall rack and approach shoes on. Was wondering if its a "bolt ladder" basically or if its mandatory free climbing. I didn't really look over at it much when we were right there at that belay. And would you use the lower belay or the Window Pane one?

RP3

Big Wall climber

El Portal/Chapel Hill

Apr 11, 2013 - 06:31pm PT

It is WAY faster to go that way.

You will want to wear free shoes though. You probably are going to want to be bringing free shoes for some of those upper pitches, right? You also don't need a whole big ass wall rack if you go that way.

Do it and have fun!

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Apr 11, 2013 - 07:20pm PT

it has mandatory free climbing as i remember, or at least you would want to free climb part of it since it would suck ass to have to aid all that 5.7-9 terrain.

briham89

Big Wall climber

san jose, ca

Apr 11, 2013 - 07:40pm PT

Scott, I was thinking about it, and for that first day of doing the first 3 pitches it might be worth wearing free shoes for you guys. Or at least one person (who ever is leading pitch 1 and 3). This would allow you to bust a couple 5.9 moves on pitch one to speed things up, and then bust some 5.10- moves on the 3rd pitch variation. Maybe you don't want to free at all, but I think that would be a fast option.

FWIW IIRC the bolts on the third pitch variation weren't that spread out, and I think the cheater stick you have might work Definitely don't hold me to that though, as my memory is foggy.

Jane Gallwey

Big Wall climber

Ireland

Apr 11, 2013 - 08:17pm PT

When I did it I got stormed on P2 and had my hood and head down so much I belayed and bivvyed in the wrong place. Woke up, checked topo and saw the "must belay here for window pane flake", with 'here' not being where I was!
Decided to go the variation as didn't want to arse about with moving the belay.

If I remember correctly there was one cheat stick move at the start then the rest went easily enough either hooking or using my nut key as a cheat stick. I'm a shitty climber, was soloing and in trainers - so it can't be too bad :-)