How many of you have done Black Elk in the Winds?

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Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
Roadie

Trad climber
Bishop, Ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 2, 2013 - 02:10pm PT
Seeing the Pingora and Wolfshead threads made me remember my first route in the range- Black Elk. I’d been wanting to do it since I read about it in Gripped magazine in the 90s.
In about 05 I found myself in Jackson with not much to do and on the weekend of the 4th decided to hike in and solo Pingora and/or Wolfshead. I threw a harness in my ultra-lite pack at the last moment thinking I might be able to rap down with someone.
I saw Black Elk on the way in and thought ‘that’s the line to do!”
Moments after getting into the Cirque I met these three guys and set up camp near by. Two were ticking the classics and a few of the easier obscurities. I could tell the other was kind of feeling me out, then he said, ‘So do you want to do Black Elk instead?’
‘Dude, I’ve wanted to do that for ten years, yer on!’

We did what might have been a new start, had a great time and both freed the route. I never saw any of them again and can’t even remember their names. I lived on peanut butter sandwiches for three days. I didn’t bring a tent and couldn’t believe how bad the mosquitoes were. If you guys are reading this then thanks for the awesome memories!
Steve Seats
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 2, 2013 - 02:35pm PT
Haven't done Black Elk but the Feather Buttress is in the crosshairs for this year if I feel fit for it.
tallguy

Trad climber
eastside
Feb 2, 2013 - 05:09pm PT
Awesome climb. The middle 4 pitches are some of the sweetest crack you can do anywhere, and its got one of those ass hanging way out in the breeze exposed cruxes. So fun.
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Feb 2, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
more Beta?
WyoRockMan

Trad climber
Flank of the Bighorns
Feb 2, 2013 - 05:37pm PT
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/black-elk/106229037
ruppell

climber
Feb 2, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
Damn it roadie. I thought this was gonna be a parody thread about........

Oh nevermind. Thanks for bringing yet another great looking line to my attention. I really need to get to the Winds one year. It's just so hard to leave the Sierras in the summer.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 2, 2013 - 07:08pm PT
Did Black Elk last August with Jack Tackle....probably the best route i have done in the Winds. The 5.11 wide crux is no gimme....20 ft. of parallel 4 inch.
Larry

Trad climber
Bisbee
Feb 2, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
Did it in '86 with 2x #$ Friends and one #11 Hex and Jaimie Olson. (After a failed attempt the year before, in which we didn't "get" the "move the belay" on the ledge at the end of the third? pitch, and thought the route went right. This apparently goes, but not free. Routefinding was based on Jeff's AAJ description.)

Then the very next week, I watched as Alex Lowe climbed the crux.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Feb 3, 2013 - 12:48am PT
hey there, say, ... this sounds really interesting... thanks for sharing...

hope more chip in, as to the route...

:)
Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
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