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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
docsavage
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 31, 2013 - 06:34pm PT
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I been meaning to post this for a long time. Here's one of the reasons I got into climbing....
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 31, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
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That one article, probably more than anything else, inspired me to one day become a climber. As a 10 yr. old, looking at the article, I never would have guessed that only six years later, I'd be in that very spot.
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docsavage
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
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I just pulled it from a box in a storage unit where it had been for nearly 40 years!
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big ears
Trad climber
?
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Jan 31, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
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Radness
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Jan 31, 2013 - 09:44pm PT
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That article was a big deal. I still have it. Does anyone remember how many rolls Galen shot for that one? It was a lot.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Jan 31, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
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I wanted to go on that climb in the worst way! I was doing my field research on meadows and forests in the high country in '73 and had to do my soil moisture data before I could go. Galen wouldn't wait till I was done, hyper-guy that he was, so he asked Doug to go, and the rest is his-story, as they say...
Edit: +1 to Guido's comment below. So often, Galen was all about Galen!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jan 31, 2013 - 10:09pm PT
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I still have that issue too!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jan 31, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
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One of the funny parts was Galen used one of Hennek's photos that ended up in the Geo article and Dennis didn't give a sh#t about the credit he just wanted a little of the money pie.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jan 31, 2013 - 11:37pm PT
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YES, love these rich ass history threads!
thanks for posting,
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More Air
Trad climber
S.L.C.
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Thanks for posting up those excellent scanned photos. Same as Fat Dad, I was also climbing that route as a teenager with my twin brother 4 years later. Rowell's photos are excellent...as a youngster I couldn't stop looking at that article.
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docsavage
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2013 - 06:34pm PT
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'Does anyone remember how many rolls Galen shot for that one? It was a lot.'
Morgan - I remember someone telling me around that time that he took upwards of 2,000 pix. A far cry from my 36 exposures of Kodachrome taken of it in 1976 but then with Nat Geo picking up the tab, why not? Another little birdie told me this was hardly the first clean ascent, that it had been done that way numerous times before. No reason to doubt that, chocks were in full use by 1974, but the point of the piece was to broadcast a clean climbing ethic....
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Well I guess we ought to ask Hennek and Robinson about all those facts or non-facts?
Knock knock.......................
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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couldn't remember when a photographer got by with so FEW rolls of film for a story.
sounds like Rowell shot pictures how Allen Ginsberg taught spontaneous prose.
"first thought best thought"
Galen had instinct.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Good one!
I was 13 at the time and had been climbing most of that year, my childhood buddy and me having taught ourselves with "Basic Rock Craft", the La Siesta press rig from which many of us were spawned.
See this picture at the top with Robinson clenching his teeth/scratching his beard?
Swear to pork I couldn't recognize those guys as climbers, all bedraggled in socks' n such and all I could think was: those dudes look like Pakistanis or something ... Do they really need porters on a big wall???
 Nice recount Joe Hedge: I remember you telling that story and it's nice you trotted it out for us here!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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I remember that article very clearly, like it was yesterday. It had a similar effect on me.
Dig the knickers.
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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
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Bump! Thanks for posting the article. Very inspirational... to many of us. What a team!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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me too! I was inspired by this article. Still have the magazine.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Meanwhile, as Hennek caught up to the group, stuff had gotten quite a bit kookier since last he looked. Galen thought to stage a photo where where he was bivying, strapped to The Mountain. Never mind the details.
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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
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