Draw placement

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Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic

Enthusiast

Sport climber

Port Townsend WA

Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 16, 2013 - 07:33pm PT

I've been placing my draws the wrong way according to what directions and other climbers tell me. Does it really matter as long as I keep the same orientation the entire time?

nature

climber

Boulder, CO

Jan 16, 2013 - 07:36pm PT

scuffy b

climber

heading slowly NNW

Jan 16, 2013 - 07:46pm PT

I try to keep one end above the other, but it doesn't always work.
I fear I've used up many of my nine lives because of this.

k-man

Gym climber

SCruz

Jan 16, 2013 - 07:50pm PT

The word "orientation" has a few meanings.

If I understand one meaning correctly, it's OK to have a different orientation than others. Although if we use another definition of the word, it is definitely not OK to change orientation.

Prod

Trad climber

Jan 16, 2013 - 07:50pm PT

I'd say that in general you should try to avoid back clipping. It becomes less of an issue for straight up lines. Google Back clipping.

http://www.abc-of-rockclimbing.com/howto/backclipping.asp

Prod.

The Larry

climber

Moab, UT

Jan 16, 2013 - 07:53pm PT

Morgan

Trad climber

East Coast

Jan 16, 2013 - 07:57pm PT

The best thing is not to z-clip or clip the rope from out to in (rope to climber ends up nearer the rock) a.k.a back clipping. As far as I can tell, there are approximately three ways folks like to clip:

Trad: Both gates down and out.
Petzl: Top biner up, bottom biner down, both gates facing the same direction.
Extreme Sport: Top gate facing away from climber, bottom gate facing toward climber (Graham/Sharma, et. al.).

Also be careful how you clip fixed gear, especially pitons, so the carabiner isn't stressed.