Climbing in Kings Canyon & Sequoia

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Messages 1 - 6 of total 6 in this topic
Rich the Brit

Trad climber
San Ramon, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 27, 2003 - 05:40pm PT
I climbed on Moro Rock this Sunday. We were the only people on the entire crag! On Saturday, we hiked in Kings Canyon, but I didn't see a single climber, yet the place is wall to wall rock.

What is wrong with this place? Is there something I am missing? There looked to be a huge potential for 3-5 pitch moderate lines (5.9 and below).
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
May 27, 2003 - 06:03pm PT
Don't go there. The climbing sucks, the rock is choss, the hillsides infested with poison oak, it's way overcrowded, the approaches are rappels down loose gullys, the walk-off is hideous, and worst of all, while you're climbing, tourists throw rocks and trash.

Double Ditto for Castle Rock Spire across the way, but add in cross-country thrashing through miles of tick and rattlesnake infested brush.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
May 27, 2003 - 07:06pm PT
I'll agree...

We climbed in Sequoia last summer...man, what a drag. Just no scene there, and too much rock. I was scared without my homeboys. No one to spray to.

I mean, I "sent" a really fun route, and I wasn't even in anyone's home movies!

Waaaay too many tarantulas...

Brian in SLC
Jody

Mountain climber
San Luis Obispo County, CA
May 27, 2003 - 07:11pm PT
And whatever you do, stay the heck away from Mineral King, not an ounce of good alpine granite there, it blows! Wishon Reservoir and Courtright Reservoir are hardly worth the drive up there...the whole Western Sierra slope absolutely sucks...just head to the Valley or Bishop, lots of virgin, untouched granite there to be had!
Rich the Brit

Trad climber
San Ramon, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2003 - 08:45pm PT
"the whole Western Sierra slope absolutely sucks..."

I have climbed some of the stuff in the Southern Yosemite guidebook - Fresno Dome, The Balls, etc. I thought it was quality if only for 3 reasons:

1) I didn't have to stand in a queue or worry about rockfall from parties above
2) It is about 3 hours drive closer to the Bay than Bishop
3) Climbing was OK. Like a Yosemite 3 star route - just in need of a little traffic to create approach paths and clean up the rock/cracks.

Is the rock in SEKI really that bad?

The crags around Tokopah falls (less than 1 hr from Lodgepole) looked to have great potential - guidebook just gives a handfull of routes. I had a sneaky suspicion that the Fresno crowd might have been keeping their scene under wraps, but maybe not.
pinkpoint

Social climber
Nevada
May 29, 2003 - 12:30pm PT
there's other rock in the Sierras than in Yosemite? Whoa. Guess that's why the topos for the range are all white.
Messages 1 - 6 of total 6 in this topic
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