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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
Jake M.
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 27, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
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Saturday we rappelled in two 60m pitches from the top of the third pitch of the Kor-Beck route on Middle Cathedral rock. Instead of using the anchors on the route, we stayed about 20 to 30 feet to the right (as viewed from thethe bottom looking up) on the blank face. There seems to be a newish bolted face route there, does anyone know what route that is?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 27, 2012 - 06:38pm PT
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Bernie and Mr. Way have a few climbs there.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Aug 28, 2012 - 02:47pm PT
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Bump for a cool looking route!
 Luke
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Aug 28, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
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Is Space Bubble is there?
and new bolts - replacement of old?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 28, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
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This newish route is between Kor-Beck and Space Babble.
[Edit:] Yeah, looks like it starts with the 5.10a var to p1 shown in the supertopo guide topo, and stays just right of the arete.
As the next post mentions fixed copperheads for pro, sounds like a Jim Beyer route (he used that stuff on his climb that overlaps Paradise Lost, and also on a route right of Sailin' Shoes).
Jake - how about you climb it, and report back! :-)
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Aug 28, 2012 - 04:12pm PT
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Back in '07 I did the Kor-Beck and noticed that there was a face line breaking left toward the top of p1 (looked like you peel right from the .10a p1 variation of the KB). It looked fun, but at that time seemed to be a mix of bolts and (oddly) bashies in incipient cracks and small pockets? Wonder if it's the same, and was still being established in '07...
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 28, 2012 - 04:20pm PT
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I don't know about the face out of P1, but dang, that corner below the face route sure looks spicy!
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Lennox
climber
just southwest of the center of the universe
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Aug 28, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
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Perry Beckham and Steve Sutton put up a 5 pitch 5.11+ route called the Grand Wazoo in that area in '96, but it's probably a bit too far right to fit your description--it starts from the second pitch of Bircheff-Williams.
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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
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