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wallgumby
Big Wall climber
LA-LA, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 24, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
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You have done all the good routes at Stoney Point a zillion times. The boulder problems you haven't done ... are the ones you will never do. Yet you keep going back over and over!! Ok, repeating the same old sh#t is fun, you have the movies wired, you feel great and confident, 5.11 feels like 5.8. But are you learning anything? You idiot, haven't you looked across the train tracks to the north, across the street, or the the hills to northwest. There are acres and acres of possibilities. Get out there and do something new!
Yesterday I dined on another savory dish of the untasted. The Pink Doodle routes are about 35'. First goes required some delicate care in cleaning off the loose rock, but revealed some nice climbs, similar to Potholes at Stoney, with cruxes of passing the roof. Here is the topo for the Pink Doodle formation. Also a picture of the Pink Doodle Traverse on the backside.
And no, I am not broadcasting locations. Climb with me or find your own. BTW, much of the area beyond stoney is private land. Use caution and respect. I know some scary anti-everything locals.
Good Climbing!
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Aug 24, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
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The several years that I lived in the general vicinity I never grew bored with it or the exploring I did between there and Simi Valley. I use to try and get out there 2-3 times a week at times. It was an oasis in the center of a concrete jungle (perhaps a bit of an exageration) & I always had that psych going on my way there.
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10b4me
Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
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Aug 24, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
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Everything was climbed by the 80's. All that's left is choss
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Sep 23, 2012 - 11:04am PT
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Ignorance is bliss.
If you don't think folks where all over that 30 years ago, you don't think much & you know less.
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Messages 1 - 5 of total 5 in this topic |
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