This Way - video of Genus Loci, Squamish BC

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Relic

Social climber

Vancouver, BC

Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 16, 2012 - 10:32pm PT

This video was just posted in the Squamish photo and Stories thread, but truly deserves it's own space. The video features Jason Kruk climbing the unrepeated for decades classic "Genus Loci" and his inspiration behind the climb, namely supertopoian/Squamish legend Hamish Fraser.

Enjoy.

http://vimeo.com/47592057

Relic

Social climber

Vancouver, BC

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2012 - 10:08am PT

Unrepeated for decades, eh?

Ya Warbler. No one had the sack to repeat the whole thing, including the runout 11d slab pitches, until this year. We are all scared of nightmare slab here.

MH2

climber

Aug 17, 2012 - 10:32am PT

No one had the sack to repeat the whole thing

True in some sense, no doubt, but a couple of us once had the ignorance to try, back in the early 90s. We were pretty beat up by the end of the dike pitch. I was beat up by the end of p2. It was a great experience despite a distinct lack of success on several sections. The kind of climb that inspires you to be better.

From the video it looks like the route may still need a no-falls onsight, or perhaps the fall was for the camera?

Relic

Social climber

Vancouver, BC

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2012 - 10:13pm PT

Those were probably just for the camera those falls. It did get redpointed by Marc Andre Leclerc and Jason Kruk this year.

I'm really surprised someone like Andrew Boyd never did the first slab pitches. They seem right up his incredibly talented alley. Who knows, maybe he did do them but quietly.