TR Spanked at the Cliffs again

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ImplicitD

Trad climber

Boise

Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 29, 2012 - 03:37pm PT

The Mrs. and ImD went out to the Black Cliffs (Boise's Crag) this morning. If you have had the pleasure of climbing on BC basalt, then you know how crazy this crag is...almost not that fun...but here ImD finds himself again and again.

The routes, however short, pack a punch as they are slick, bolted in all the wrong spots. Still they take good pro so there is actually classic cracks, in spots.

We did a 5.7 with four bolts and supplemental gear. D led the pitch clipping my extra pro. Hard core.

We did the classic Bryan's Route, may fave 5.8 at the area.

Next ImD got on Three Guys and Three Cracks Num 3, a 10a crack. ImD fired the lower crux roof (good stance to fuss about before actually sending) then up to the high crux getting to the anchor. A steep corner with terrible glossy basalt feet...ImD was terrified. Worse, it seemed that ImD would have to commit to these poor feet and a good left crimp that pulled his body back into space (route is vertical and perhaps 92 degrees steep).

Well, we re going to Vermont on tuesday and ImD didnt want to commit. ImD cheated a bit right to Three Guys Num 2, a classic 5.8 and got to the top.

We drank a beer at the base and went home, just at the sun, and impending 90+ degree day, fell upon us. Walking along the base we pass other climbers, it seems they have gotten here a bit later than us...college kids perhaps. Have fun in the sun...basalt is about 10 degrees hotter, ImD thought, finding the hidden trail across the talus. In 10 minutes we are home...the best thing about the cliffs.

When Michael Jordan and the bulls beat Magic Johnson and the Lakers in game two of an NBA finals, Magic said (paraphrasing here), "There's nothin like a good butt whoopin." Thats always stuck with me. I had fun on that climb and today. I am happy to be out there, post sendage, just checkin out the view.

Note that I did not use the word I very much...can I have a gold star for my fvking forehead.

klk

Trad climber

cali

Jul 29, 2012 - 04:05pm PT

klk approves of this tr

Kalimon

Trad climber

Ridgway, CO

Jul 29, 2012 - 04:26pm PT

Don't worry, ratings don't mean sh#t.

Spider Savage

Mountain climber

The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles

Jul 29, 2012 - 04:29pm PT

Photos?? MtnPjt links???

Sometimes, basalt is all you get.

Especially in Idaho.

ImplicitD

Trad climber

Boise

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2012 - 04:33pm PT

We were all alone the entire day...

I remember when I lived in CA, Placerville, and I would drive up to the Leap on a sunday...rediculous. I always have to remind myself exactly what Im missing.

Lots of usage of word... I.