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rockermike
Mountain climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 4, 2006 - 02:47am PT
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Anyone used the new removable bolt gizmos that look kind of like ball nuts? I've seen them in store but wonder - what are they for? Lead pro or just delicate aid? If the hole is there why not just put in a permanent bolt? Maybe a way to cheat your way up a scary section with less visibility?
Any thoughts or experience with them?
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susan peplow
climber
Winner of Diet Challenge!!!
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Not new, I got some of those many years ago (like maybe 8) for prizes at the Phoenix Bouldering Contest.
They seem to get a pretty good response at the time, but never really took off.
We've got one hanging in the shop to test.....no test yet but instead, we've got video of the flexible big toe. Go figure.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Flexing a toe: easier than drilling a hole.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
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This dead horse has been beat.
The outcome was they are a neat tool, but climbing a route and finding a hole is near impossible. So freeclimbing is out... aid? hmmmm... holes are filled with bolts or rivets. "What if a rivet has pulled...?" Slam in a new one out of your pocket rather than carrying a special widget.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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They've been used around here to deal with no bolts ideology.
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bobmarley
Trad climber
auburn, california
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i've used them a bunch for putting up sport routes. they are invaluable. you can use them for bolting ground up, and either go back and use the holes for bolts, or fill in the holes later if you don't need them. i've taken big whippers on these things, they are bomber. i know the inventors, carl and joseph at climbtech.com. i think they found that the real application for these devices is construction, where workers need to drill quick bomber anchors. what they sold the most of was the 5/8ths, not the 1/2 or 3/8. i'm not sure they found a huge market in climbing, for them.
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Landgolier
climber
the flatness
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File under: "Glad they're on the market, but not sure I'll ever need 'em"
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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In light of the softness of sandstone I'm glad these things never took off. If you drill a hole for an anchor then you ought to put something good in it.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Like bob said, they're great for ground up aiding new sport routes.
I don't think they make the 3/8" any more though. They're a challenge to remove, and can be tricky to place one handed once the wedge wire gets wonky.
I have heard tales of RB "sport" routes. What a pain in the ass! First you have to find the hole, while leading. Then you have to place a tricky piece of gear. If you place it too deep, it will be very difficult to remove. Further, they put such pressure on the sides of the hole, that I've heard of rock 'plating' off when lead falls were taken on them.
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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