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ikellen
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 27, 2006 - 01:59am PT
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I offer you this. This was developed after much thinking and pondering during a slow day at work.
I actually started out enjoying winter, as that meant snowboarding season. However, the hankering to want to climb long routes in high and remote places tugged at my interest, and eventually snowboarding became a bit monotonous. Why did winter have to be such an evil bastard, laying 2 feet of snow on all the popular approaches and making usually balmy alpine crags instead lessons in winter expedition packing and climb? I pondered this question and became utterly beaten by it.
However, I somewhat brightened my own mood for winter, ironically on a snowboarding trip. I have snowboarded for three seasons solid now, and I'm comfortable on anything up to single black diamond. I figured now that I could snowboard almost any run, I had to try other methods of getting down the hill. Yes, you guessed it, I strapped on a pair of boots and skis and then proceded to the bunny slopes. I forgoed a lesson, as I was trying to save money for gas for the drive home. I figured that I had watched over a hundred kids do the pizza slice dance down the hill, so I had to be able to do so myself.
The first chair lift load was uneventful, however the inability to put a foot down to stop your sliding was a bit disconcerting. As I rode up the lift, I had neither fear or excitement - I had the thought that I would pick this up quickly, but in the back of my head I still had the idea that my trip down the hill would be a continous summersault. Coming off the chair was slightly eventfull - I came close to clipping some kids who were probably out there trying to accomplish the same thing I was - make it down the hill without killing yourself. Luckily I avoided them, and a thick layer of heavy powder on flat ground prevented me from speeding out of control right off the lift.
Long story short, I made like a popular italian food and made it down the hill. I did so 5 times in fact. Even better? I stayed on my skis. Admittedly each run took 3 times as long as the chair ride up, but I felt the same exhilaration as when I started snowboarding. I was even making parrallel turns on the 5th run.
So three days later, I'm sitting on my work laptop on my lunch break, and I decide to check out some skiing on the internet. Several days later, I'm finding out the amazing abilities that telemark skis can provide when going up a hill. Amazing!
But in connection to this, a whole new spectrum of winter gear was opened up to me. Suddenely snowshoes, parkas, skins, probes, exotic soft shells and other October to February items were the objects of my obsession. But there is an even bigger idea that grew out of my sudden ski affliction.
As I began researching backcountry ski routes, I realized something that is really applicable to the conditions we're experiencing right now in "mid" alpine areas (6,000 - 10,000ft). Residual snowpack is a problem as it makes approaches a postholing nightmare. However, I think people are taking Winter conditions with a mentality that Winter Activity is an excercise in humping huge loads and tons of cold suffering (and not a good big wall kind of suffering). However with temperatures in SoCal and southern sierra mountains, the only thing "winter" about some great climbing areas is the residual snowpack from the thick of winter. Even in the middle of winter, lots of great climbing is accessible with just a pair of snowshoes, crampons or skis. Other than adding a pair of the aformentioned items and changing your clothing systems, great climbing can be enjoyed.
Now, there are some caveats. Winter provides the chance that freak weather conditions can happen, so if you don't carry those emergency essentials, this would be the time. Also, 5th class rock routes can still be icy from runoff that freezes overnight, but great 3rd and 4th scrambling as well as moderate colouirs (such as basin mt.) are wide open. Things can be colder at elevation as well, so better to wear warmer garmets, but just as important as warmth is breathability, because if you get wet, you can die quick. I could go on for much longer on this, but google is great for anything you want to know.
In short, for those complaining about winter, grab some crampons or snowshoes, get off your a$$, and go climbing. A little research and skill can take you a long way without lots of bad suffering.
Postlude: I fell asleep halfway through writing this, so it may have lost some sense halfway through, but hopefully you guys got the general idea.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Apr 27, 2006 - 02:46am PT
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Good, it looks like another two months of snow and rain in Cali!
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Karen
Trad climber
Good question?
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Apr 27, 2006 - 02:54am PT
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Yay...ski season in Ca will last until July 4th (Mammoth mtn), not including the backcountry...love the snow...and dreading summer.
Not at all sick of winter, cause if it were up to me, instead of "endless summer", it would be "endless winter"...well...spring skiing is actually the best, ya know, corn snow!!!!
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Apr 27, 2006 - 03:31am PT
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DOOOOD!
The steelhead and salmon are going back up the creeks and rivers this year.
Wet Cali = nice.
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Karen
Trad climber
Good question?
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Apr 27, 2006 - 10:19am PT
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Thanks Kath...wow, sounds like you live in an awesome spot...can I come visit??? lol....
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the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
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Apr 27, 2006 - 11:51am PT
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Dingus is right. Stay ahead of the curve. Everyone is always skiing in December when the snow is usually pretty crappy. March and this year April were the best ski months.
December can still be great for climbing. However...
When it's cold and your hands are numb and your shoe rubber is hard expect rock routes to be harder than normal. I have some wool mittens, that the top folds back an velcros out of the way so your fingers can be uncovered. So you keep 'em warm at the belay, but can climb. I've also climbed with gloves on until I get to the crux. It works suprisingly well. Of course in Cali you get on a face in the sun and it could be 70 degrees any month of the year, but that also means that ice climbing is rare and short lived.
A wise woman with sexy lips once sang: it's not having what you want, it's wanting what you've got.
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ladd
Trad climber
land of fruits, nuts and flakes
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Apr 27, 2006 - 04:01pm PT
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DMT... good to read that you've now got it figured now - ski days from March to April are longer, warmer and the snowpack for cover and corn.
cheers
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