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| Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic |
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 10, 2012 - 12:12pm PT
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Bear with me here. 1950s toilet gets yanked, and WTF, no flange on the cast iron 4" closet-bend, closet bolts were originally straight into the slab, but one of the receiving holes has a busted off lip/edge that at some point was "repaired" by pouring a thin layer of thinset to make a new lip (which of course crumbled, it was like 1/8th thick.
Any reason not to just drill those holes in the slab out deeper and use a redhead wedge style anchors instead of actual closet bolts?
The other options (as I see it anyway, I sure as hell ain't no plumber) is a drop-in "twist and set" type flange, or a metal superflange but either of those would require them to be screwed to the concrete slab floor with tapcons or something, so if I'm drilling either way...why not a wedge anchor and skip the flange altogether?
Old toilet was not leaking around the wax ring, btw, so I have not reason to think there wouldn't be sufficient seal with a waxring directly on top/around the lip of the closet bend.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 10, 2012 - 12:20pm PT
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Sounds like the sh#t. I'd go with it.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
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Nice one Jaybro, I'm laughin' so hard I almost pissed my pants...which without a terlet..where else am I gonna piss?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 10, 2012 - 01:00pm PT
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the only trouble with this is the realization that drilling with a drill (as opposed to hand drilling) is so fast and easy that it leads you down the road of evil temptation with the bolt fairies whispering in your ear: "why hand drill? if you're doing something illegal already, go all the way!"
so my advice: hand drill those suckers... better to avoid the immorality of it out on the rock...
that's my 1% contribution (from hard won experience)
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Jun 10, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
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Cap in yo azz...could you use some of that simpson anchor bolt epoxy to anchor the mounting bolts...? I think you can buy it in a small application package..? Is that a Locker Rental...? RJ
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ruppell
climber
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Jun 10, 2012 - 02:43pm PT
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Had to do something similar on a custom shower I put in a few months ago. Ripped the existing shower pan to find one very rusted shower drain assembly set in a slab. Broke the bolts to remove the upper housing. Got a new assembly and only used the top half. Drilled the old lower portion to mate up with the new holes from the upper. Drilled hole into slab. Framed up the new shower and laid down the new liner. Lots of PL between the bottom flange and the new liner. Dropped in three 3/8 bolts, put new upper flange in place and tightened. Sawzalled off the extra lenght of bolts. Way faster and better than ripping the slab to replace the existing plumbing(which drained fine). So yes use the bolts. 1/4 should be fine for a toilet. Also I would use an additional 1" wax ring just to make sure there is an adequate seal.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jun 10, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
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The guy 2 posts up has the right idea. I believe they make a retro flange which snugly fits inside the existing one with gaskets. That plus some (lots) epoxy and 1/4" tapcons should work fine.
Prod.
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