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steveej
Trad climber
Bristol, UK
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 8, 2012 - 08:45am PT
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Hi,
Don't have the guide book in front of me as Im in work, but trying to work out the pitch lengths on the seagul and the molar.
Packing my gear for my trip tomorrow and need to know if I need to take a lower out line for my third man who will obviously need to lower himself out directly from the previous belays.
Are 60m ropes tied in short sufficient for him to lower himself out on these two traverses? or do I need to pack a dedicated lower out line?
We have so much stuff, including 2 60m lead lines, 75m haul line and 60m zip I would rather not take an extra lower out line if I can help it.
Cheers.
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Prod
Trad climber
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I bailed at pitch 4 a few weeks back. But got a decent look at the seagull. Our plan was to use our tag line (zip line?) as a lowerout for that pitch. This would mean that the leader leads the pitch without a tag line. Pretty sure you could lower out the haul bag, then the 3rd could use the other hald of the zip line to lower out?
Good luck.
Prod.
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steveej
Trad climber
Bristol, UK
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2012 - 10:34am PT
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yeah but my zip / tag line is only 6mm, so I don't really want to do that.
Why did you bail? if you don't mind me asking
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Someone else has to state the obvious...
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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I'm up for the task:
Yer gonna die!!!!!
:)
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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6mm line should be fine for a lowerout since the lifeline would still be one of the beefier ropes. If you're not liking the 6mm through your belay device, setup a munter or biner wrap on a second biner before the belay device to add more control of the friction.
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steveej
Trad climber
Bristol, UK
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2012 - 11:09am PT
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just thought aof an idea.
Pull all the slack out the 75m haul line and lower him out on that. Assuming the traverses are no more than 100ft or so in length
Yay
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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You don't need an additional lowerout line. You guys have plenty of rope to free up some or one to get it done. Maybe on those pitches (I don't recall what we did and we were 3 guys) the leader just doesn't take the zip line, trails the haul line, then carries all the gear for the pitch and lets the lowerout guy use the zip.
With the above, you can lower out the man and the bags all at once using the zip. Then he can jug what will now be the next lead line, you can haul, and the zip line can be used as a chicken line for a while then taken with the new leader on the next pitch. Man #3 is cleaning the pitch at this point.
All of this is pre coffee and may be out of sequence.... but something like that should do it. The lowerouts I don't even remember so how big could they be?
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steveej
Trad climber
Bristol, UK
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2012 - 11:40am PT
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Thanks russell. Thanks for sorting the ledge for us too. I got an email saying its at the PO
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Prod
Trad climber
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Hey Steve,
Russ pretty much said what I was saying, and a 6mm is fine for a lowerout in my book.
We bailed because I had work obligations in Boulder and we were climbing too slow. We were needing 6 pitches a day and were pacing at about 4.
Prod.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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a few pics of my friend Forrest leading up to the Molar and then him cleaning it.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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We bailed because I had work obligations in Boulder and we were climbing too slow. We were needing 6 pitches a day and were pacing at about 4.
Wall math...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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My recollection is that the biggest lower out is following the hooking traverse one pitch before the molar. We were two, with a lead line, haul line and zip. I was cleaning that pitch, and the plan was for me to tie in short on the end of the lead line, use what was left to lower out some and then just cut loose and fly.
I cut the bags loose and saw the huge arc they cut without any impacts. Then I lowered out 'till the end of the rope was in my hand at my device. I was thinking "this is just wrong," when I heard Rob yelling from above: "three... two... one..."
Watching the end of the rope flip out of the belay device and run out through the biner back at the belay was a novel experience.
FWIW The topo we had showed the two pitches from the molar (the pendulum pitch and the 5.9 wide) linking as one 60m affair. This did not reach, and I had to downclimb back to the belay. I think the rope will reach for hauling or a third man jugging, but not through the gear for the leader or cleaner.
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Bargainhunter
climber
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Rumor has it that badass wallrats are now forgoing a lower out line and using a DaBrim as a sail/parachute to allow them to drift slowly away from the anchor in a controlled gentle fashion. It puts a little strain on your neck muscles at first but works. You can practice by wearing your DaBrim and driving with your head out of the window at freeway speeds. The pink color works best and is the one I recommend.
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| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
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