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pell
Trad climber
Sunnyvale
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 4, 2012 - 03:47am PT
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Yesterday we climbed something on Lover's Leap East Wall. We meant to simul climb East Wall 5.7, but I missed a left turn after the first belay and climbed a cozy dihedral all the way up and slightly right. On our way up we found some (3 or 4) escape slings. Some of them looks really scary, I'd better climb the dihedral up unprotected rather then rappel from such an "anchor". Higher I climbed things got tougher and tougher. I was really happy to find a solid belay ledge with a huge flake (a perfect anchor with one 48" sling) on it. Just above the ledge there was an inhospitable looking roof. On the right side there was a second belay of the Line. Then we found a 5.easy traverse to the left and slightly down to the Bushy Ledge (the second belay on East Crack, Bear Reach and East Wall).
Looks like we climbed too high from the East Wall route. We found some gear used to retreat on our way up. Thus I think our route-finding mistake is a common one. Probably we did a part of a well-known route that was not included in SuperTopo guidebook. Probably it's a well-known variation of East Wall route. Do you know (or can assume) what did we climbed yesterday?
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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I don't know if there is a route the way you went. My understanding is that it is 5.9 runout the way you went. Yes, many people have missed the route and gone straight up. At first belay exit left was the way to go......
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Do you know (or can assume) ... “When you assume, you make an ass out of you and me.”
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pell
Trad climber
Sunnyvale
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 02:27pm PT
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labrat, thanks for feedback. The hardest move was a kind of .8 or maybe .9 - it was a steep layback without any footholds. I didn't learn how to jam in finger size cracks yet, probably there's an easier way to pull up through the dihedral.
ß Î Ø T Ç H, nice input, thnx.
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