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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 29, 2003 - 11:53am PT
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OK --
I've heard what works for others
i.e.
handstacks with rh palmout ontop kickthrough w right leg
repeat
but that doesn't seem to work for me
I have gone highest by inverting from the topmost outer fist jams with left foot.
Fish? Jaybro? any hints?
Should I just get a life?
Brutus
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Bishop, Ca.
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Apr 29, 2003 - 01:03pm PT
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Its been about a million years.... but....
as I recall you fist up as high as you can, and use some wicked body tension to get your first stack, then invert 3 times in a row and slip inside. I think it is a left leg inversion thing. Herman Wing (super buff Mexican guy) just Gastoned the thing..... (maybe)
good luck...
Russ
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scottf2
climber
Sacramento, CA
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Brutus and/or Russ,
I've always enjoyed reading your various posts about OW climbs and technique- can you describe your technique on BAM a little more thoroughly? I think I get the basic idea, but I've never had the pleasure of doing an "invert" move in an offwidth, so I'm not exactly sure I'm following the entire process. For example, when Russ mentions inverting three times, does that mean he's actually going head over heals three times in a row? That's pretty nutty- can't wait to try it sometime! Thanks for any clarification you could provide.
Scott
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AlexC
climber
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Tried it about a month ago. We tried a number of things and eventually figured out a strategy that should work (based in part on beta from Russ from a previous offwidth thread), but by then we were too tired to get more than about a third of the way up.
The plan for next time is as follows:
1) Start with fist jams and get as high as possible. The last good fist jam for me is near the top of the offset.
2) Kick the left foot overhead and jam the left foot in the crack with toes pointing upward and outwards. I found that I don't really need to do any camming - my foot seems to jam quite well by itself.
3) Switch hands to a stack and place the stack as high as possible. It's awkward to do this because the left leg is in the way unless you lean outwards.
4) Alternate sliding the left foot up as high as possible and then moving the stack up.
5) As you go higher, bury the left foot deeper into the crack. Deeper seems more secure. Eventually it will be wide enough to get a knee in. At that point get a knee jam and try to flip upright again.
6) Continue up using stacks, arm bars, chicken wings, whatever works in the higher wider section.
We got to step 4, so after that it's speculation :)
I tried starting wiith stacks, but then you have to immediately use the foot overhead technique because it's really hard to move up the stacks when it's overhanging. Doing this is difficult at the start because the offset makes it really hard to move the stacks. I find that once I invert I can release the stack but then I can't reach far enough in to get a good stack again. Maybe going right foot up would help since the offset shouldn't be so problematic. After the offset it gets better.
Hoping to have another go at it soon... :)
Alexander
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BASE104
Big Wall climber
norman, OK
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I only remember the inverts. Russ was even there. It was a gang assault. Some had it really wired, like Russ. He just walked up it. In cowboy boots. Anyway, I was sort of "guided" up it by the experts. We TR'd it.
Inverts: When you get the first stack I think it is left hand flat against the wall and right hand in a fist facing out. Crank as high as you can on the stack, then turn your body as far as you can to the right and throw your left leg over the stack as high as you can. Then pull in your foot to expand the knee. Stand up as much as you can on the kneejam and repeat. It took me many more inverts than Russ because I am such a weenie. The stacks and kneejams seemed pretty solid. You just have to fight for every inch.
Pulling into the squeeze at the top didn't seem too hard compared to the climbing below. I had broken my right ankle about six weeks before and could barely limp around. Had to ride my bike to the route. I couldn't do a heel toe on that foot, so I lowered off from inside the squeeze to much jeering. Everyone else cruised that part, even those who took more tries than me on the hard part, so it can't be that bad. So, I have done the crux, but not the route. Anyway, I know you don't need your right foot until you get into the squeeze at the top.
This was many years ago and could be utterly wrong.
Mark
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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Jun 25, 2009 - 07:48pm PT
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I did it with right-leg calf locks just below stacks, no
inverting.
It was critical for me to work as high as possible before
getting my first stack, otherwise my first calf lock was not
good enough for moving the stack.
Basically, if you can get two stacks, you've got the climb.
Just get a third, then a fourth...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 25, 2009 - 07:57pm PT
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yeah, two stacks and for me, un like scuffybro, two inverts and the rest is history. That's how I soloed it....
Missed this one, first time around, btw. Sorry, Bruce.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jun 25, 2009 - 08:11pm PT
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Only on the TR, but no stacks, straight arm barring, dynamic moves to jack the arm bar up, God-awful strenuous because I couldn't get my big ass knee in the super steep bottom part. Nasty burn on the back of my right (arm bar) arm.
Dale B. could get his knee in down real low and made it look like chugging up the Generator Crack.
JL
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 27, 2009 - 01:25am PT
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here's how scuffy did it the last time I was with him there...
http://home.comcast.net/~e.hartouni/video/Bad_Ass_Momma.mov
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