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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
Paul
Trad climber
Muir Beach, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 21, 2006 - 05:57pm PT
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Looking for the Virginia (El Cap) topo - If anyone has it - please send it to me. The link on the Obscurities page is down (the link to the 43 pages of el cap obscurities). I used to have this topo but suspect that the wife pitched it with my Reid book after my Tis-sa-ack solo. I am looking for the full Virginia route, not the Tangerine Trip link-up. Mucho thanks, please fax or email with beer reward if you can make it to SF or the valley.
Email: listed above
Fax: 415-383-3553
Thanks,
Paul
Muir Beach, CA
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Paul
Trad climber
Muir Beach, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2006 - 07:09pm PT
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Thanks Shack - got it!
(Everyone else, please resume the usual shenanigans)
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Mar 21, 2006 - 07:46pm PT
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Lemme get this straight--
The wife pitched your topo book after the solo?
Current Rock and Ice has a piece by Link on the Death Slabs guy they slung out this fall. No real new information.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Mar 21, 2006 - 08:16pm PT
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She probably pitched it during the solo, or soon as the car left the driveway.
I feel for ya buddy. That's a tough one.
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Paul
Trad climber
Muir Beach, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2006 - 03:59pm PT
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Okay, I can't blame the wife, she's way too caj to do somthing like pitching the book. She even met me at the top (Tis sa ack, Half Dome) with a bottle of wine - which also made for a fun evening on the double ledge slung from the pine trees on the shoulder of the Dome.
It's probably buried under some of my climbing stuff or I left it at Tornado's (SF) after a couple Belgian beers. BTW, I thought Virginia had at least 12 pitches to it before it joined in with TT - guess not.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Calif
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Mar 23, 2006 - 05:38pm PT
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I can give you an updated topo later this evening when I get home form work. I did the route on '04 and there were some errors of the ST obscurities topo. There's an A1 pitch that's pretty ribald for the grade and up high there's a pitch(7th?) that joins the Trip's orange corner that was drawn wrong and was MUCH harder than the topo indicated.
Virginia is a nice start to the T. Trip and is much drier than the Trip start which drips all over the place. The only place where we got wet was the pitch up to the 4th belay on the trip and that belay had water dripping on us all night, we had to put up the fly on the ledge to stay dry. The first pitch was really cool! It is way steep and has only 1 bolt on it. Lots of cams, wires and just a few heads & pins but the route needed lots of medium to large heads when I did it.
Have fun & I'll forward more info later.
Levy
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Calif
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Mar 29, 2006 - 11:31am PT
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Paul, I looked at the topo I drew after I did the route & here's some key info.
1- The route joins TT at the top of the Gold corner on pitch 7.
2- The 6th pitch is hard for A-1 and the 7th is also difficult for that grade, the corner is a left facing feature, not a right facing feature like the topo shows and needs medium heads & some bigger head sizes. The rock is a bit grainy too.
3- A standard rack for the TT plus some extra heads and large sized rivet hangers are needed. Erik Sloan replaced the old crap rivets with 3/8" buttonheades which are bomber but a regular rivet hanger will NOT fit over them. A wired nut will work fine but may leave you a bit short on some reaches to other placements.
4- There's a cool ledge at the top of pitch 2 you can easily fix down from. I think a single 60 M rope will suffice.
Have fun!
Levy
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Landgolier
climber
the flatness
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Mar 29, 2006 - 03:00pm PT
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-=Hijack alert=-
I had forgotten how great some of the obscurities topos are.
Various rack/fixed HW notes:
1 RURP, 1 pr. safety goggles
#7 friend
Note: All bolts are _BAD_
Many Bad Dowels
Rack: EVERYTHING!
1 million aliens (or 4 sets)
sufficient tequila
sticky rubber and buffed calves
kick ass...
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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