Great Sail peak?

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Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic

laughingman

Mountain climber

Seattle WA

Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 12, 2011 - 09:09pm PT

Has anyone climbed the epic north-western wall since the russians in 2002?
Route was rated (ED2, VI 5.11a A4, ca. 1158m). Looked super run out and reminds me of Fitzroy.
Anyone have info on the climb?

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber

the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney

Dec 12, 2011 - 09:14pm PT

Another dirty little secret (sigh).

I have not.

laughingman

Mountain climber

Seattle WA

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2011 - 09:23pm PT

A4 copperhead seam on the Geat Sail Peak

laughingman

Mountain climber

Seattle WA

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2011 - 10:57pm PT

The full side view of the "peak"

mike m

Trad climber

black hills

Dec 13, 2011 - 03:40am PT

Sweet shots. What an unbelievable looking area. Brrrr.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Dec 13, 2011 - 04:58am PT

It's one of those areas with few routes, so people are more likely to do new routes than repeat old ones. Even if the old ones are good.

DaveT.

Big Wall climber

southeast face portaledge

Dec 13, 2011 - 10:02am PT

The biggest gem up there in that Stuart Valley by far is the Mamma Jamma- sitting front and square for all to see- is the one in the pic just above- right in the middle. Never been touched, but I think it has been jumped.

Good Luck! And yes, it is quite cold in that valley.

-D

laughingman

Mountain climber

Seattle WA

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2011 - 10:18am PT

Good Luck! And yes, it is quite cold in that valley.

I was more just wondering out of curiosity then actual intent of climbing up on baffin...

Llewelyn Moss

Big Wall climber

LZ Loon

Dec 14, 2011 - 01:03pm PT

The climb is called "Rubikon" and is the second line on the formation. It was climbed by a strong group of Russians who did not place a single bolt in almmost 4000'. It took them less than 2 weeks. The route is characterized by a system of vertical cracks, splitters and corners, all the way to the top.

The first line on the formation, "Rum, Sodomy, & the Lash", the American route, employed some bolts. Not to discredit them, it is a thinner line up a sweeping clean section of the wall. They probably saw that splitter seam they couldn't resist going up there (see photo labeled "A4 copperhed seam"). Mark was on a roll... :)

Dave: yeah, that wall looks rad. Sheer.