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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 16, 2006 - 05:37pm PT
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It was thought that this (not so) famous OC bouldering crag had met its demise under the bulldozer blade and was now sprouting condos and mini mansions. But as reported in the Stonemaster Thread Part 6:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=164782&f=0&b=0
...although (allegedly) slightly reduced in height this infamous crag was not a casualty of residential real estate development after all. After being goaded on, I promised to head out and capture images of the once obscure (but fondly remembered) Chip.
From the road, it looked familiar, even though the surrounding landscape had changed considerably. The "rock" appears to be a conglomerate of volcanic rubble and ash -- If it were bigger, it could rival Smith Rock (maybe not).
The right side looked in pretty good shape and a closer inspection found that rumors of extra dirt along the base "groundless."
And the left side, where Mike & Co. had done some really hard and highball problems looked in prime shape as well.........
well, assuming you could even call this prime rock.
Didn't have shoes or chalk, but overall, the crag has not suffered too badly over the years. The downstream canyon has been preserved as park/open space with some trails. Still not worth visiting...
Then, at the request of Robs, I took a quick spin to Pirates Cove... Prime conditions prevailed and actually ran into one person bouldering...(I tried to do a problem or two in my Doc Mareens, but not ideal footwear). The Brain is found near dead center on the photo... a long way up and possible bad landing.
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G_Gnome
Gym climber
The Big City
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Mar 16, 2006 - 05:50pm PT
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Good job Randy. It's almost like you have been practicing for this assignment your whole life.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Mar 16, 2006 - 05:52pm PT
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Does the Brain have the chiseled pocket? or a different line.
Thx for pics of the Chip, it was one of the few OC "Hunks" I hadn't had a chance to check out.
Speed Limit Boulder is a piece, but I remember Black Star Boulder being fun.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2006 - 05:54pm PT
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Actually, after a close inspection, I think the only thing needed to get this crag back on local's radar is to bolt all the lines, rename the problems and call them routes, have some famous young guns travel here and declare the area rad, do a photo essay in R&I and Climbing, write a guide and retire.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2006 - 05:57pm PT
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The chiseled pocket was on a direct route that headed up the deepest and steepest part of the cave, directly below the Brain. This problem (and hold[s]) was added many years later -- looks like it isn't climable anymore either.
The original Brain came in from the left.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 16, 2006 - 06:02pm PT
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The Chip!
Nice Spin Off from the Stonemasters thread.
Gee, now I clearly see a hidden aspect of that truly great period.
What an unsung prize.
Sometimes the nucleus of great things is, well...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 16, 2006 - 06:55pm PT
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my GOD that thing looks like a pile.
good thing i got this 15 minutes from my house:
FLAGSTAFF. IT'S WHAT'S FOR DINNER.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Mar 16, 2006 - 06:57pm PT
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You shouldn't advertise... you've got 'The Next Boulder' written all over you!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 16, 2006 - 07:07pm PT
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yeah, it's all part of my master plan. i already got 10,000 copies of a guidebook printed and stored. get rich quick.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 16, 2006 - 07:08pm PT
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Isn't 'the Draw' sort of off limits, these days? Maybe just an approach access deal?
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2006 - 07:25pm PT
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Black Star Boulder is the one way up a fire road on the edge of the Cleveland National Forest? Been off-limits for a few decades?
Black Star Boulder is perfectly legal and has been. But, the jerk who lives at the bottom of the canyon tries to intimidate people and tell them they can't head up the public dirt road.
I've Mt. biked up Blackstar many times (no vehicular access anymore) and you just go quietly or ignore the guy. No, I'm not heading up Black Star on my bike for lunch tomorrow...
Bob, Sorry to say, but that crag of yours wouldn't make it here in OC... it looks too good to be even considered a Hunk. Lack of quality is the name of the game.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mar 16, 2006 - 07:31pm PT
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The Draw isn't off limits at all. The road that ran "through" it has been killed. You now park at either end and walk.
In the short term had we not had this recent snow there's a good chance we'd be facing the Forest closure right about now. I expect that to happen around by mid April unless some real moisture hits. Then it'll be closed until mid-July or so.
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Mar 16, 2006 - 08:12pm PT
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Great job Randy!
I like your thoughts on turning it into a modern Sport area too!
So you can still boulder at the beach or was this guy sneaking around?
Chiseled holds? Bummer, always wondered what possessed someone to do that.
Thanks for getting the shots.
MG
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Mar 16, 2006 - 08:19pm PT
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Wow, what a pile. Excellent job on naming the crag.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2006 - 08:25pm PT
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Meant to add that bouldering at the Beach is perfectly legal. I do think that in the summer they restrict climbing until after 5:00 pm -- trying to avoid climbers squishing picnics or small children (which are regularly found under the problems).
Now I'm psyched to head down to the Beach again -- the gym gets pretty tiring.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Mar 16, 2006 - 08:49pm PT
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bvb: now you're makin' me jealous. Great looking bouldering in the 'staff. But is it really possible to actually climb a crack thinggy that wide?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 16, 2006 - 08:55pm PT
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henny, i refer you to the "leavittation" thread.
plus we got some of the best of bob murray's dimes probs here. i can drive to them from my house in less time than it takes to listen to two tom petty tunes on the stereo.....
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Mar 16, 2006 - 10:47pm PT
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Just as junky as I remember from being there once with Ricky, like 65 years ago. The russet hue gives it that "chip" quality.
And you gotta love the Hunk Guide. You could just as easily add Echo to the list.
JL
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