Batso's Dawn Wall Ascent Now on Video!

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Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic
Norton

Social climber
the Wastelands
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 8, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
Roger Derryberry has finally made available to the public his tribute to his great friend Harding. This video is available for only $1.99 and you can view by clicking here http://www.amazon.com/Warren-Harding-Recollections-Morning-Light-1970/dp/B005JI0GB6

You can watch the video as often as you like for seven days.

The video includes footage of the Wall of the Early Morning Light climb along with an interview with Warren. Bear in mind that Warren appears nicely plastered in the interview.

But you know, for $1.99, its cheap enough and good entertainment and memories!

Hope you enjoy it, I did.
Norton
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 8, 2011 - 02:31pm PT
It would appear you can't buy it.
Norton

Social climber
the Wastelands
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2011 - 02:47pm PT
Nope, only can rent it for seven days, presumably Roger wants to retain all rights for a feature length movie on Warren.

At least that is what he told me about five years ago when I made contact with him and he sent me a VHS tape of what is now on Amazon.

With his permission, I made a CD copy for Susie for background material for her planned book on Harding.
ec

climber
ca
Oct 8, 2011 - 03:32pm PT
True to Harding form. I just finished viewing it and enjoyed it. My wife remembered, "Oh, yeah, you had him do a slide show at Sunrise." That show had the largest attendance of any show we ever had. Someone during the Q&A session afterwards asked how much those rivets held. Harding classically, "Weeeaaall..." I help him out reiterating the story I had told him when I repeated the route...about Ed Sampson taking a 60 footer due to one of the rivets shearing, only to have the fall held by another original rivet WITH the original swedged hanger on it.

Harding, "Well, I guess everything or nothing."

thx Roger!

 ec
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Oct 8, 2011 - 04:04pm PT
Thanks Norton for bringing Roger’s work to light here. This video---I have just seen the whole thing now---consists mostly of a single interview with Harding many years later and in the beginning of ill health. There is archival footage taken from the valley floor and on top during the ascent, also.

His firmly anchored individualism, playful wit and nearly childlike sense of adventure still comes through clearly here and as the video progresses he is able to focus a bit better, overcoming maybe a few Manhattans. It is definitely worth the view and thanks to Roger for making access so inexpensive and for keeping Warren’s legacy going!
ec

climber
ca
Oct 8, 2011 - 04:10pm PT
He was clearly unshaken by views contrary to his vision.

Harding was like a Steve Jobs in that respect!

 ec
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
Oct 8, 2011 - 04:16pm PT
Awesome, thanks,
+1 on Peters comment, thanks for making this film, and making access to it at such a low cost.
Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Oct 8, 2011 - 07:03pm PT
There are 2 videos . . .


Warren Harding: Recollections of the First Ascent of El Capitan in Yosemity Valley (Volume 1)
http://www.amazon.com/Warren-Harding-Recollections-Capitan-Yosemity/dp/B005JI0TUY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I1EMU3JZ543IG7&colid=2GL3DFQ4AXH2G


Warren Harding: Recollections of the Wall of the Early Morning Light-1970 (Volume 2)
http://www.amazon.com/Warren-Harding-Recollections-Morning-Light-1970/dp/B005JI0GB6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I1YQYEY6H1XV7M&colid=2GL3DFQ4AXH2G



Maybe in time Roger will change his mind and sell them as DVDs. I would buy them even after watching them both through Amazon on-line.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Oct 8, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
Maybe in time Roger will change his mind and sell them as DVDs. I would buy them even after watching them both through Amazon on-line.
Is he as drunk in the first video as the second? I had a really hard time watching. I remember him in this state in the early 90's, wandering around between Camp IV and the Mountain Room Bar. It was kind of depressing. These videos are taken from what must (certainly, I hope) have been the worst days of his life. I did enjoy the flash back videos. Do they have sound? Is there video out there from better days? Hulu? The interviewer doesn't really draw much out of him either. She's way too young and clueless. Not a waste of time, but kind of depressing and hollow.

Norton

Social climber
the Wastelands
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2011 - 09:05pm PT
JLP, thanks for saying what I too was thinking.

Harding's alcoholism was sickening to watch, lifelong severe and unapologetic.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Oct 8, 2011 - 09:16pm PT
Exactly so, the alcoholism and everything that came with it, was heartbreaking to watch. Hard to put it together with that much much stronger character that preceded it.
WBraun

climber
Oct 9, 2011 - 12:12am PT
Why so depressing? I didn't feel any of that.

He slept most of the day during that winter in camp 4 and got up around 4 in the afternoon.

The Mountain room bar would be opening soon and his spirits were up.

Then off to drink the wine.

So fuking what!

There were times I'd sit with him and I didn't say anything for hours and he'd just ramble on about something. I didn't even care nor paid any attention to what the hell he was talking about.

Then I would get up and say good night to him and he'd smile.

He was a good man.

I left him alone to his destiny.

He was fairly happy during that winter among us .....

Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Oct 9, 2011 - 01:38am PT
Now, I didn't know Warren personally, but I did see him down here in San Diego give a slide show at REI. I have his book and have read it. And obviously I knew the story, the infamous and funny rivalry between Warren and Royal.

Warren is hilarious. He was always the kidder. He has a great way of telling stories. Drawn out and slow but very rye humor. Funny as can be. Yes, wine was a part of Warren. But it was also his character. He draws from it and brings it into many of his stories.

His rye humor, I thought that came through well in both videos. I like the first one better. Roger is pretty funny and was a better interviewer. He knows Warren. He knows how to push Harding's buttons.

Both are very worth watching. Filmed very well. But I liked the first one better if I had to pick.

Again, I'd buy them if they were available as DVDs for purchase. It's important history. And Warren is hilarious.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Oct 14, 2011 - 12:27pm PT
Bump
Trusty Rusty

Social climber
Tahoe area
Oct 14, 2011 - 12:54pm PT
Thanks for the find Norton, great memoir of a fantastic character and era!
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Oct 14, 2011 - 12:54pm PT
I watched the Nose video a few days later. It is better. He's not drunk. He cracked a bit and the video is edited when discussing his lead over the headwall - obviously a highpoint of his life. The producer taping himself driving around the Valley and sort of showing off his way outdated studio is kind of cheezy, but overlookable.
Acer

Big Wall climber
AZ
Oct 27, 2011 - 03:41pm PT
Bump
Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic
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