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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 3, 2011 - 09:33pm PT
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Heading to The Measdows for our annual SuperDuperEndOfSummerClimapaloozaExtravaganza. Me an' Macronut fully intend on biting off more than we can chew over four days, ending with The Regular Roue....A big route for punters like us.
Question: We will be traveling with a 60m rope and a tag/rap line of same length. Looking at The C-Mac Supertopo is kinda confusing when looking at linking/possible alternative belay stances. On that topo, considering the standard options and the open circle optional belays, where should we stop to maximize efficiency and speed up to crescent.
Full TR to follow....Including West Crack, Matthes Crest, Mobile Mart etc.... Thanks for the intel.
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
-A community of hairless apes
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It's so over-talked.
Just get on it, belay opportunities abound.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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yup stop when you run low on rope or sooner.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Wherever you feel like... honestly though. The nice thing about those long routes is you just go with the groove. If you're feeling western, run out a long pitch all the way till the rope tugs. If its just not one of those days split it up a bit. Climb fast and it don't matter. As long as time isn't wasted at the belays and both climbers move fast it doesn't matter if its 12 pitches or 8.
It seems these days a lot of people are getting hung up on doing this in X number of pitches. Its pretty common beta on MP.com, 'did it in 5 instead of 8,' 'used an 80m and climbed whodunnit in 4 pitches!!!'
???
How does that make the experience any better or worse? I feel I climb things in an "average" number, and am usually the fastest guy on the routes... I'm by no means a good climber, I just have done so many miles of easy terrain that I move efficiently and so do my partners. The 70M rope is a strange tool, methinks...
p.s....
Just my .02, leave the rap/tag line in the car. Once you get 4 pitches up it is mostly low fifth with the occasional 5.7 move, you will retreat faster going up instead. Unless its really light, then leave it in the pack if you feel the route is at your limit as far as length goes. When I climbed it, it was my first 5.9 multipitch route and we did it in 5 hours, not an unreasonable time... but I had done a hundred or so 5.4-5.8's, so once we did those first two pitches it was bid'ness as usual.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2011 - 12:12am PT
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Thanks yall.
G Davis, youre right we're probably over thinkjn it. We just want to be efficient since this thing will be around our limit these days. Just dont wanna slow folks down behind us. And if we motor early the thing should be super fun.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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was just up there last Sunday... we used an 80m = 264' rope, 60m = 198' or so...
I'm looking at the 2009 ST topo.... and recalling what it's like to use a short rope...
you can make the "200' from ground" open circle tree belay with a bit of simul-climbing it shouldn't be hard for the second... the crack is dry for the most part.
Unfortunately, this doesn't help much... you've got another link to belay 3, probably with a bit of simul-climbing, and the '4" stance on right wall' sucks big time... better is the 7x10 ledge, but you won't reach and you probably won't want to simul-climb
3 to 4 is what it is...
then 4 to 5
5 to 6 will be a bitch if you don't care for the rope over the 3' roof, there are places for it to get caught and give you horrible rope drag... if you can avoid that, push belay 6 up to the place indicated by the dashed line labeled "5.7" and belay there... there's even a tree... that's what you want to do...
either go up left and traverse, or do the 5.7 and traverse to belay 8.
Once there, unrope and 3rd class to the top...
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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the problem with going long on the pitches (in my opinion) is that you will be tempted to carry too much gear.
Once you get that first pitch under your belt, the route is really straightforward.
EDIT: I really like this route. Did it every year from 1977 through 2004, some years more than once. Going to get back on it later this month.
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NotIt
Trad climber
SF, CA
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If this route is anywhere near your limit - and from what you say, it is - then the linking opportunities on this route are totally uncool (read: potentially dangerous).
The link to the tree at 200' is secure, but as Ed pointed out above, if 5.8 OW is not totally dialed for your second, then you FER SHERZ don't want to do the link from the tree at 200' to the 7x10 ledge. It could be muybad (there was a story of someone falling in the first few moves off of the tree belay and breaking something earlier this season - so yes, ya can fall in that section).
Since those two are the high-value (better stance) linkages, you're better off just pitching it out more or less per ST. Yeah, more pitches. Yeah, worse stances. But on the positive, you won't have the reaper breathing down your neck.
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