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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
hairyapeman
Trad climber
Fres-yes
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 21, 2011 - 05:06pm PT
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So the start was a bit confusing. I tried the start that has a bolt protecting it about 10 ft off the ground, and fell twice. Frustrated, we went about 15 yards to the right with an obvious corner to fist crack. I ended up belaying jeff up to where the only bolt on the whole route was at. A bat even said hello from a piton scar that held a gray black diamond cam.
The chicken heads on this next pitch (P2) was probably the second coolest thing about the climb!
The south pillar was a great spot to have lunch and sort gear.
Getting jazzed!
Pitch 4 ended to the right of a squeeze chimney that had a sweet chockstone to protect it. We ended up doing a 5th pitch due to the fact that neither of us has been here or climbed it before.
Over all I loved this route and think it would have lines waiting if it were in the valley. I will definitely come back and climb more in this area! Sorry if the pic's are sideways.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Aug 21, 2011 - 05:12pm PT
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Sweet climbing thread! Kinda slacker to post photos sideways. I like it.
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hairyapeman
Trad climber
Fres-yes
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2011 - 07:22pm PT
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Another mystery of computers. On my computer and camera it shows it flipped. But the original pics on the camera were flipped...even though I rotated them. Hum....? Guess thats why I climb and don't really care about computers much.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aug 22, 2011 - 12:00am PT
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Very nice, Mark. I was hoping for a good TR when you posed your questions last week, and you didn't disappoint. The chickenheads there and at the Balls are amazing.
Thanks again.
John
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Jeffhalsey
Trad climber
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Aug 22, 2011 - 03:16am PT
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Apparently we did some other route on the first two pitches... how do I know this? Because these guys have pictures of the start that in no way look like ours. Oh well. Awesome climb anyway and now I get to look at pictures that give me Taco Neck™!
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hairyapeman
Trad climber
Fres-yes
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2011 - 03:35am PT
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Taco neck! Ha! Maybe we did do another route? Gotta love the possibilities of trad! Ours looks better anyways. Oh btw....welcome to supertopo.
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Jeffhalsey
climber
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Aug 22, 2011 - 04:01am PT
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Welcomed. But, don't expect me to stick around, I just have trouble sleeping sometimes.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Mar 28, 2014 - 02:37am PT
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Nice job! Good adventure route.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Mar 28, 2014 - 06:55pm PT
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Apeman, it sounds like you did the same start that we did, which I think is the correct route. The bolt 10-15 feet off the deck is the clue. Also the alternate variation to the right where you climb into the route and make the clip (that's what we did too).
This is a good pic showing the start and first pitch.
And yeah, if you find that bolt at the top of pitch 1, you're on track. Ithink we belayed just below it off gear.
Pitch 2 is a must do pitch for anybody. Fun, fun, fun!!! The whole route is cool though. I can see myself doing this on an annual basis.
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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