Direct start to Zodiac

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Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
mike hartley

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 7, 2003 - 09:30am PT
I don't hear much about people using the A2+ (ST) direct start to Zodiac. I assume this means it is of lesser quality. Sure seems like it would make connecting the 1st and 2nd pitches into one easier, especially if you are soloing. I've heard it goes hammerless if the heads are still in. What's the beta? Thanks!
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Mar 7, 2003 - 11:17am PT
Speed ascents use that pitch but it sucks.
mike hartley

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2003 - 11:30am PT
Minerals - define "sucks" for me. Bad rock? Ratty heads? All of the above and more? Thanks again.
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Mar 7, 2003 - 11:39am PT
Good rock, good bolts/rivets, bat-hooks, a pin, a RURP, a hook, and a bunch of heads - don't know what condition the heads are in but if you don't know how to place heads and clean the old ones, then you shouldn't go near anything but the Nose or Salathe.
SPIKE

Big Wall climber
Alta Loma, CA
Mar 7, 2003 - 11:44am PT
Last summer in September I watched 8 different teams start up Zodia and everyone used the A2+ alternate start.
mike hartley

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2003 - 01:08pm PT
Minerals/Spike - thanks again for the info!
James

Gym climber
City by the Bay
Mar 8, 2003 - 03:27am PT
go for the corner I did the Brian Law Direct start on a speed ascent and now I have to quibble with degenerates like Way as to whether my time counts....the corner is quality too the direct start a clip up..sorry Brian
Lambone

Ice climber
Seattle
Mar 8, 2003 - 03:36am PT
"...you won't find moments in a box, and someone else will set your clocks..."
spacemonkey

Big Wall climber
sweden
Mar 8, 2003 - 08:57am PT
The original start is one of the better pitches of Zodiac, do it clean and You will see why! The direct start is just a fast clip-up and not as classic...
Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
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