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GRJ
climber
Juneau AK
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 14, 2011 - 05:04pm PT
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This amazing very asthetic line was first climbed in 1973 by John Svenson and Mike Clark. It takes the most direct line up the central pillar of the Main Tower in the Mendenhall Towers outside Juneau Alaska. A second line was climbed by Jacek Maselko and partner to the right, I believe, but I don't know many of the details.
Gabe on Pitch 3
Gabe Hayden and I flew out Sunday night July 10th 2011 as the weather broke. I had 3 main objectives but after taking into consideration the fact that I hadn't had rock shoes on in over 6 months and our 2 day weather window we decided to go right for the buttress.
The first two pitches (150m) or so was fairly moderate slab climbing with short 5.8 cruxes on very clean stone. The climb began to rear back on the 3rd pitch and gave us our only real dirty climbing on the entire route. It also brought use to the first pitch of the headwall and the crux pitch.
Ryan on the crux pitch
The crux kicked my ass... It is an .11a flared slot with a funky crack in the back. The pitch ends at the beginning of the main headwall crack that goes continuously for 300ft beginning as a finger crack then opening to a wide fist. The 5th Pitch was definitely the glory lead.
Gabe leading pitch 5, 5.10d
Ryan following pitch 5
Mmore amazing pitches followed in the 5.10-5.9 range as we topped out the main pillar. We took nice long breaks hydrating enjoying the surroundings as we realized that the was going to go. Sunny days in Southeast Alaska are so rare it important to appreciate them.
//Ryan packing the tag/haul line high on route//
As the climb mellowed out we popped off the climbing shoes, put on the approach shoes and simuled the rest of the way to the summit. It was Gabe's first real Alaskan summit.
//Gabe on the Summit of Main Tower 7/11//
We descended the mountaineers route and got back to the tent an hour before night fell. As we recorded our route pitch by pitch we discovered our route was nearly 2000ft long. The next morning I awoke barely able to move, but was able to bake it from the tent to lawn chairs where gabe and I day drank until mid afternoon when our ride home showed up. A big thanks to Gabe. He really put his head down and made it happen. Thanks for reading.
Ryan Johnson
Summary: South Buttress Main Tower, Mendenhall Towers, 5.11a 2000ft FFA 7,11, 2011
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jul 14, 2011 - 05:59pm PT
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NICE!
Looks like quite the route!
Thanks for posting up!
Cheers!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jul 14, 2011 - 06:17pm PT
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A single splitter that unlocks the headwall at .10+... sounds like paradise. Thanks for the post.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 14, 2011 - 06:23pm PT
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Nice nice pics but it doesn't count in that weather. Sorry.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 14, 2011 - 06:53pm PT
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Well done! Looks like good stone.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jul 14, 2011 - 06:58pm PT
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Looks awesome! I especially like the pic of wrastlin' the flare.
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Plumbbob
Mountain climber
Juneau, AK
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Jul 14, 2011 - 07:39pm PT
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Excellent, glad you got out and took advantage of the sunny weather!
Was your route the sun shadow line on the main tower or was it further to climbers right? (The photos were taken in August 2010)
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GRJ
climber
Juneau AK
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2011 - 08:32pm PT
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Yeah Bob, that shaded line more or less defines the line.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 14, 2011 - 10:02pm PT
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Sweet looking climbing! Great rock.
Thanks for posting the TR!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jul 14, 2011 - 11:13pm PT
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Wow, what a prize. Thank you!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jul 14, 2011 - 11:17pm PT
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that rock (and weather) looks killer.
nothing better than good stone right off the snow under blue skies.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jul 14, 2011 - 11:28pm PT
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wow.
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Plumbbob
Mountain climber
Juneau, AK
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Jul 15, 2011 - 01:55am PT
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Bump, for actual climbing.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jul 15, 2011 - 11:19am PT
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Alaska BUMP!!!
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