Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 10, 2006 - 04:52pm PT
|
My climbing amigo Brandon told me about a recent thread going on about Tehipite and I can't resist tossing in a few tidbits as well. The general "feel" of all the comments I read are that it is a brutal hike, infested with snakes, and although big not worth it cuz it's discontinuous...Hmmm. While Tehipite will certainly never be a busy "crag" because it IS a full value objective here are a few of MY personal thoughts that I hope will encourage a few hearty souls.
One of the threads speculated that establishing new lines on Tehipite is probably like picking apples at the grocery store...unfortunately, there are actually not a ton of continuous systems on the main wall and they will be more like trying to pick an apple from the end of the top branch without a ladder. It's also very hard to get a good angle to see the main wall except from across the valley (and raging river) but that's another story...
The approach to the top of the dome is a liesurely and beautiful 15 mile hike. Our route "The Wall of Ages" 2001-5.11+, A0 24 pitches)Can be approached from the top by rappeling the route. You scramble down a gully to the main ledge that divides the upper dome from the main lower face and begin the rappels there. On our final ascent of the whole route we did the rappel and climbed the route in a day. The route WAS established from the ground up and you certainly get bonus points and some character building opportunities for doing it that way if you wish. Although I never saw a snake on the ground up approach it sure looked like a place that snakes would love. If one is not inclined to commit to the single push you can descend to a spacious ledge system with water and bivy gear, drop it off, continue the rappels to the base then climb about 13 pitches back to the ledge. It is another 5 steep pitches to the main ledge where you can drop off the haul bag, then another 6 pitches (that you don't want to haul on!) up the final dome to the top. On our final push we left some water at various points along the way as we descended to the start of the route.
If you're into scouting things out before jumping in (I think they call that common sense though I can't speak from personal experience)you could hike in for a 3 day recon with a light pack and rack and just climb the 6-8 pitch upper dome which has many beautiful routes that stand alone by their own right.
It is possible to hire pack horses but he will only take you as far as Crown Creek (or maybe 30 minutes beyond to a nice campsite with water if you beg him!) There is a nice creek that is running most of the year (if its dry its probably hotter than you want to climb there anyway) that you cross just before dropping into the west approach gully. Take the time to dial in the approach and cache your rack etc, then come back the next day early.
The climbing is fantastic and the setting is amazing. The line is direct, sustained, varied, well protected and there are no "filler" pitches of scrambling that often crop up on long backcountry routes. Be sure to bring at least a few BIG cams up to the new C4 Camalot size 6 for the attention-getting OW near the start of the route.
There's no doubt that for Tehipite (and most of the long Sierra backcountry gems) you gotta love a lot of walking, adventure and challenging trad climbing, but then again who wouldn't?!
Cheers!
Dave Nettle
by the way the name "Wall of Ages" was a tongue in cheeck jab at the age spread and decade representation of the crew who were involved in establishing the route: Scott Thelen was the teens, Brandon Thau was the twenties, John Fehrman was the thirties and I (gulp) was the forties.
|
|
Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2006 - 05:53pm PT
|
Thanks for the first hand beta Dave!! That three day hike is still probably the crux for me. Does the hike out take as long? I figured the approach and hike out take almost a week alone, which is what's kept me from heading back there.
Well, that and all the stories of snakes everywhere.
|
|
G_Gnome
Trad climber
Ca
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2006 - 06:54pm PT
|
One day in, one day out. I didn't see a single snake when I was there. There were lots of bears though. Beautiful place.
|
|
TeleRoss
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
|
Has anybody climbed this thing? Sounds sick!
|
|
PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2013 - 08:00pm PT
|
Tehipite is in my "backyard." If anyone needs a partner, hit me up.
|
|
ec
climber
ca
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
|
The day prior to humping to the base (In the Niche of Time, VI, 5.10, A3+) we fished. I had a submerged snake (garter) surface and curl up on my shoe when I was standing on a small boulder in the creek. 'Pretty freaky. No rattlers for us...
 ec
|
|
TeleRoss
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
|
Sweet!
Has anyone climbed this particular route, Wall of Ages?
|
|
ec
climber
ca
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
|
I believe only the original Beckey Route (Time Warp) and Too Hip are the only routes to ever have been repeated, to date (sans the 4th class route). Usually, I would think most would only make all that effort to 'do their own thing' and not repeat other routes. Time Warp's 2nd was the FFA. Too Hip was repeated, only because Brandon thought it was an FA.
ec
|
|
TeleRoss
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2013 - 08:33pm PT
|
thanks
looks like a climb worth repeating tho.
one day in, one day to climb a 3,000'+ stone, very nearly all free, one day out...sounds like fun to me!
:)
cheers
and yeah, I hear ya about the 'do your own thing' tho...
|
|
| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!