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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
"The 3rd crappist place to live in England"
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 21, 2011 - 01:25am PT
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About 50 - 60 feet to the right of Lurch and Mortisha is a face with a bolted line up it that had no anchor until yesterday. Anyone know the name? Was it completed?
between those 2 points is a 5.5? scramble up to a ledge/terrace area. There is an obvious L facing corner system with a grungy wide crack in in the back. Sections of it look unprotectable, but it seems too obvious not to have been climbed? Any ideas?
Apologies for interrupting the usual flow of politics, music and reminiscing.
a
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kwit
climber
california
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May 21, 2011 - 02:44pm PT
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Also, what is the bolted slab on the little formation to the right of the trail just before you reach Sugarloaf proper? It starts on a little bulge and then becomes lichen-covered slab. There's a big fractured piece next to it that makes a wide offwidth/small chimney. The slab feels like 5.7 or 5.8 and trends gradually left to an anchor at the top.
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
"The 3rd crappist place to live in England"
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2011 - 08:29pm PT
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That is Jerry Klatt's route 5.9 (at the start) called Fosselmax (sp?).
There is another called Tri Tip That goes up and steps across the chimney you mention 5.7
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schwortz
Social climber
"close to everything = not at anything", ca
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May 23, 2011 - 01:44am PT
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Also, what is the bolted slab on the little formation to the right of the trail just before you reach Sugarloaf proper? It starts on a little bulge and then becomes lichen-covered slab. There's a big fractured piece next to it that makes a wide offwidth/small chimney. The slab feels like 5.7 or 5.8 and trends gradually left to an anchor at the top.
see http://hwy50climbing.com/splitrock.aspx
per op - i've seen those routes around back. theres another one i've noticed to the right a little further, between the ones you mentioned and the typical descent scramble...looks like a 5.easy crack, sort of wide, maybe a little grungy
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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May 23, 2011 - 01:51am PT
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Thanks for the link schwortz
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kwit
climber
california
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May 23, 2011 - 01:56am PT
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thanks both of you. got on it a couple of years ago just because it was there but had no idea the name or rating. accidentally smearing on lichen makes it more exciting.
sorry i can't help with the routes by morticia etc.; i've never been up past those climbs.
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