Stuck Rope: Red Rocks: Juniper Canyon: Ginger Buttress

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 1 - 10 of total 10 in this topic

brotherbbock

Trad climber

Alta Loma, CA

Topic Author's Original Post - May 16, 2011 - 02:44pm PT

My partner and I went up Unimpeachable Groping on Saturday. The climb was awesome, but our rope got stuck on the last rappel just a bit up canyon from our climb. It somehow wrapped itself around a horn when we were pulling it down. We tried for like 40 mins to retrieve it but to no avail.

If anyone can get this down it would be nice to get the rope back. It is quasi-new, but if we did end up losing it there are no worries.

If you happen to come across this send me a message.

brotherbbock

Trad climber

Alta Loma, CA

Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2011 - 02:46pm PT

Someone can booty it if they really wanted a rope that has already seen plenty of action.

apogee

climber

May 16, 2011 - 03:11pm PT

"It is quasi-new, but if we did end up losing it there are no worries."

"Someone can booty it if they really wanted a rope that has already seen plenty of action."

So which is it...booty-worthy, or tat?

In either case, why don't you make arrangements to go back and get it yourself?

Not picking on you in particular, but there seems to be a pattern lately of people who bail on gear for whatever reason, then post a thread notifying others that the stuff is there, and asking for it to be returned. It has the distinct impression of shifting responsibility to someone else for one's own actions.

Perhaps your circumstances were such that retrieval really wasn't an option due to it's location, or an accident. But if not retrieving it was simply because it was inconvenient, that's weak sauce.

Studly

Trad climber

May 16, 2011 - 03:51pm PT

so it is hanging on Power Failure then? It just goes to show that even though you think you are just going to climb a sport route (like UG) and just need draws, it doesn't hurt to have a small rack of gear along. If the rope had hung higher up on PF, you might still be there with no gear to reverse the crack.

redrocker

climber

LV, NV

May 16, 2011 - 03:56pm PT

brotherbbock,

What line were you rapping? Doesn't sound like you rapped Power Failure or did you?

Was it not possible to lead up, free stuck rope and then downclimb or rerap?

Not judging just curious and maybe fishing for helpful beta as I have never climbed UG but plan to someday.

brotherbbock

Trad climber

Alta Loma, CA

Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2011 - 04:19pm PT

First off....It is booty worthy or returnable.

We rapped from the big ledge on Unimpeachable all the way to the bottom, which put us higher up in the canyon than where the route started.

We didn't have a rack so could not lead up to retrieve it. We also only had one 60 meter rope left so we couldn't have climbed back up Unimpeachable and then rapp to our stuck rope with only one line.

You also would not be able to retrieve the line from power failure either.

The only way to get it I think is use 2 lines and rapp down Unimpeachable.

brotherbbock

Trad climber

Alta Loma, CA

Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2011 - 04:23pm PT

@apogee

I try and not be weaksauce as much as possible.

In this case we conceded our loss and hiked out. Everyone else in the area was gone by the time we got down, so borrowing gear or a rope was not an option. We don't live in Vegas so hiking in the next day and finding another rope to rappel was not an option either.

Just thought I would give the taco a try

apogee

climber

May 16, 2011 - 04:31pm PT

bbbock, again, not trying to single you out. Just noticing a fairly regular pattern of these types of situations lately, and it's unfortunate. There's all kinds of reasons why gear gets bailed on, but the net effect is the same: climber trash at the crags. I'd just like to see a whole lot less of it, that's all.