Sugarloaf Crag?

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Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 17, 2003 - 11:04pm PT
I was up at Sugarloaf today and walked past a crag that I didn't see in the guide (i only have the old yellow tahoe guide). It was 200 feet west of Sugarloaf and had five low angle sport routes that all had gray painted hangers. A pic is below. does anyone know the names or ratings of these climbs?

Jody

Mountain climber
San Luis Obispo County, CA
Feb 17, 2003 - 11:22pm PT
That sure looks like Midway Rock, between Sugarbun and Sugarloaf. The routes might be, (L to R) Flight Deck 11b/cR, Self Abuse 10b, The Diagonal 9, and Undercling 8. I haven't been there in a quite a while and the drawing in the guidebook isn't exactly like your photo but it may just be from a different perspective.
Bob Jones

Trad climber
san luis obispo
Feb 17, 2003 - 11:43pm PT
how was the weather up there?
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2003 - 01:08pm PT
thanks, jody.

bob, the weather up there was good. perfect climbing temps in the sun and a little cold in the shade (but not cold enough to freeze my fingers). no snow on the ground. Luckily most of the crag gets sun all day.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Marin Hot Tub Country
Feb 18, 2003 - 09:51pm PT
Jody wrote:

That sure looks like Midway Rock, between Sugarbun and Sugarloaf. The routes might be, (L to R) Flight Deck 11b/cR, Self Abuse 10b, The Diagonal 9, and Undercling 8. I haven't been there in a quite a while and the drawing in the guidebook isn't exactly like your photo but it may just be from a different perspective

------------------------


This is definately not Midway Rock.
Self Abuse is a steep, miserable offwidth/chimney;
aptly named -- and best suited for those with a
masochistic bent...

We saw the above "routes" last year.
What a waste of good hangers!
It is possible to walk up at least
a couple of them in non-sticky approach shoes.
That would make them -- uhh -- third class...
No 5.11, or even 5.10 here!

Does anyone know the clown(s) who violated this rock?

Hardman Knott
Jody

Mountain climber
San Luis Obispo County, CA
Feb 18, 2003 - 10:47pm PT
Like I said, it's been a long while since I've been there, about 19 years, my memory might be fading. I pulled out the new guidebook and the drawing looked vaguely similar to Chris's picture. Maybe not.
Minerals

Gym climber
The Desert
Feb 18, 2003 - 11:06pm PT
Good to see you back, Bringme.

Does this sick new sport crag have a name?
Nathan Lunstrum

Trad climber
Davis, CA.
Feb 20, 2003 - 09:46pm PT
Hey,

That is NOT middway rock unless it's the backside of it(the up hill side. ) The climbers trail goes right by it...It's almost vertical with an ugly ow slitting the center of it.

N.
Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic
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