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Sloper
Mountain climber
Amsterdam
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 28, 2011 - 08:28am PT
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No climbing partner and can spend more time climbing.
I now do my solo top roping with a 200ft 10,5 mm normal (dynamic) rope and a shunt. As weight I leave a back pack at the bottom, which works fine. The shunt is attached to my harness with a DMM belay master and two dyneema slings, which slightly differ in length between the shunt and the crab. Very flexible.
My idea is to buy a semi static rope (Acces Unicore 10,5 mm by Beal) of 200m (656 ft.).
Make a belay station as normal. Place a biner. Next a shock absorber. Then a other biner. Make a loop between the two biners. So the shock absorber has to rip first before the belay station gets the full shock (in case of what? But anyways …. )
Now I can lower off as normal.
I am thinking of using this set up to climb up:
A normal harness. Put a sling around my neck. The sling is connected too a Petzl Croll which is attached to the belay loop of the harness with a Belay Master. So the Croll is always in top position in case I fall.
What are your thoughts or suggestions? Should I use a second Croll or a Mini Traxion or just a light weight Ropeman as a back-up or first a Shunt and then a Croll?
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Bad Acronym
climber
Little Death Hollow
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Apr 28, 2011 - 10:22am PT
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^^^Yea, absolutely - and don't forget to place a lemon wedge between your teeth before the sling goes taught...
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neversummer
Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Apr 28, 2011 - 11:44am PT
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can you say "gallow's pole"
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Sloper
Mountain climber
Amsterdam
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2011 - 05:54am PT
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For your info
My set up for Top rope.
Harness with Belay Master (karabiner) with two dyneema slings of slightly different length.
Slings are attached to a Shunt. The rope is weighted with the leftover rope (put in a backpack) to avoid rope drag.
When I have reached the top of the rope I use a cow tail to make “belay”. When the cow tail is under tension I can free the shunt and put a belay plate above the shunt to lower off.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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May 10, 2011 - 05:58am PT
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Whoa!
Fact.....
Yer surely gonna die!!!!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 10, 2011 - 06:06am PT
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I'm not sure if you are serious, but in case you are:
 no need for a "shock absorber" on top, even with a regular static rope
avoid using the longish slings from the Shunt to your locking biner;
that creates slack that you want to avoid.
Instead, clip directly from the Shunt into your belay loop, or better,
double perlon through the Shunt directly into your harness, bypassing
the belay loop.
I haven't used a Shunt, but I have used a Gibbs and a miniTraxion separately at different times. You want to minimize the distance you fall until the device catches on the rope.
I haven't used a 200m static much for miniTraxion, except on a couple of big slabs (when fixing for rebolting). Mostly I've just used a 60m rope.
With a 200m rope, if it traverses some, you will have to manage moving the rope weight, and I guess that is why you are connecting to the Shunt with the longish slings?
Why do you use 2 strands, instead of a single fixed line? Troll?
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Sloper
Mountain climber
Amsterdam
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2011 - 05:25pm PT
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Thank you Clint for responding.
No cave dwelling beings! I am not familiar with semi static rope’s, that is the reason why I thought of a shock absorber.
I am using the two slings in combination with the Shunt since the rope is not always under enough tension. In the beginning I was using a normal HMS screw gate biner. So the biner got side loaded now and then. Then I changed to the Belay Master, that helped a bit. But it still moved now and then sideways and still got gript to the biner especially if you have to move side ways. So I got a flexible medium in between, a dyneema sling, the Shunt moves then very nice. I was not aware that dyneema could break that easy with a small shock, until I saw the test by DMM last year. I though that is so much KN so it is safe. That made me opt for two different lengths of slings. If the short one fails the next, the longer one, is the backup. But mind I am top roping.
The idea of double perlon tape makes sense. I change to that.
I have tried to set up a top rope with a Mini Traxion (still with a normal dynamic climbing rope). In the combi belay loop> Belay master> Mini traxion. It didn’t work so good. I am not fond of the Minitraxion for this purpose. Same “problem” as with the Shunt without a sling. With a Croll I was more statified, the Traxion plate got “open”, was not fitting okay. With a sling on the torso to pull the Croll up it ran very smooth, just like the Shunt. I think of attaching a perlon sling direct to the belay loop and direct to the Croll. Maybe I place a Ropeman under it as a back up.
I found it quit awkward (already with a 230 ft/70m rope) to get slack in the rope being on “belay” and to put the rap device on the rope in slightly overhang. So the “belay” for the top rope has to be on flat terrain. But still I have to lift the total weight over the edge.
I think I have to plan the in between stations very careful.
Cheers
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