Lost Arrow Spire Tip + Weather = ?

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Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic
smokeymcpot

Trad climber
ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 31, 2011 - 06:44pm PT
How long do you think I should wait to do the lost arrow spire tip? I don't mind a little snow on the approach, but I don't want it to turn into a snowshoe trip. Assuming the weather stays nice, when do you think the falls approach trail will be doable without snow gear.
WBraun

climber
Mar 31, 2011 - 06:49pm PT
The falls trail is a nightmare right now.

Deep snow on the whole upper part.
smokeymcpot

Trad climber
ca
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2011 - 04:39pm PT
Do you think it's a safe bet that when the sentinel dome webcam isn't covered in snow anymore it's clear enough?
Mimi

climber
Apr 4, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
A safe bet would be to keep checking the webcams and temps and ask Werner again in a couple weeks or so. Have a great climb!
smokeymcpot

Trad climber
ca
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2011 - 09:43pm PT
I would love to check the web cam again, but its offline. anyone been up the falls trail recently? Lots of snow at the top still?
Wack

climber
Dazevue
Apr 25, 2011 - 12:12am PT
If you are going to be there early in the season you might want to bring your own ropes to fix into the notch.
WBraun

climber
Apr 25, 2011 - 12:14am PT
You don't need to fix into the notch if you know how to do it right.

Do you know .....
smokeymcpot

Trad climber
ca
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 04:06pm PT
...Rap with two ropes(60m or more) tied together anchored at the tree on the rim, lead on what's left of the rope at the bottom, at top pull up slack and set up tyrolean. Sound about right?
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 25, 2011 - 07:32pm PT
That seems like a good plan. How do you retrieve your rope after the tyrolean? Never done one, sounds like fun.
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Apr 25, 2011 - 08:15pm PT
Once you get to the top, the tip is only one rope length from the tree on the cliff. So you pull it like a two rope rap.
smokeymcpot

Trad climber
ca
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2011 - 04:31pm PT
How big around is the anchor tree? I was thinking of bringing some webbing to sling the tree to save my rope some wear and give me an extra couple feet on the rap. I think I found a picture somewhere of someone's tree anchor, but I can't find it now.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Apr 28, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
Seems like you'd need three ropes cause I don't think you'd have enough to lead the first pitches on the left over rope and you would be able to rap if you failed for some reason.

I'd wait as long as possible to do the Spire. It's chilly at that elevation and at certain times of day (particularly at night) a weird wind blows up there intensely Brrr...

peace

Karl
smokeymcpot

Trad climber
ca
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2011 - 07:28pm PT
These aren't the pictures I was thinking of, but they do show the anchor tree. The first pic has a caption that says it's "2 feet OD and about 15 feet tall" as of 2004.

http://www.summitpost.org/lost-arrow-tip/55969/c-151257
and
http://picasaweb.google.com/scott.morrison/LostArrowSpire#5024884925026212194

Thanks for letting me know about the bolts. I'll be rapping off a 70m, so it sounds like I won't have to pass the knot. Not that it's a big deal or anything.

If there is already someone on the route, is it best to just wait till they are all the way done? Would the anchor situation and the Tyrolean be too much of a cluster if both parties had their ropes to the tree(bolts)?

Thanks for all the good info. Looking forward to a fun, and cold, adventure. Just wish I had some experience setting up a highline. I would totally try it if someone else set it up.

One other non-spire question. What should I do with my food while I'm waiting in line early for a camp4 site? Leaving it in my car seems like a bad idea. Just keep it with me in line and don't fall asleep? What is the demand like for C4 sites for a Sunday night? I figured a bunch of weekend campers with jobs on Monday would be leaving Sunday morning and freeing up spots.
EdBannister

Mountain climber
13,000 feet
Apr 28, 2011 - 07:34pm PT
this is not your normal winter...

consider the General's Highway in Sequoia, at similar altitude, but farther south on the west side.
This pic was taken March 30 by USPS:
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Apr 28, 2011 - 07:51pm PT
Snake Dike looks good in this pic from today. Of course we can't see the descent!

Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic
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