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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 27, 2011 - 03:13pm PT
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I'm planning on climbing in the Valley this weekend (April 1-3). Temps look to be sunny & high (high 50s-60s) all this week, but I really don't have a feel for how quickly the snow at the lower elevations and south aspects will burn off. There are a couple of areas I want to climb at that I haven't been to yet in winter, so I don't know how wet they are and how likely they are to dry out or become safe by this weekend.
Could the regulars pitch in and give me some guesses?
Or warnings as to any main routes that might be wet even if the area in general is dry?
The areas I want to go to are:
Royal Arches (Select Routes)
I know a lot of this area is wet, but it really depends on the main waterfalls off of the rim. I'm wondering about Peruvian Flake (more likely to be wet as I understand) and especially Superslide
Glacier Point Apron
Camp 4 Wall
El Cap Base - I know this one can be dangerous from stuff falling off of the rim. What should I look for/consider in determining if it is reasonably safe & clear?
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Mar 27, 2011 - 06:49pm PT
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Stay away from all of the above, I would think. Lower Merced Canyon would be better after the storm systems that just passed.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 27, 2011 - 06:51pm PT
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Your best bet will be Arch Rock, Reeds and the Cookie.
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mctwisted
Social climber
superslacker city
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Mar 27, 2011 - 07:26pm PT
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there is also about 20 pitches of moderate 5.10's at pat and jack that will be dry with not much threat of rock or ice fall
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
bay area, ca
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Mar 27, 2011 - 08:58pm PT
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Glacier Point will be last to melt so that one is probably the least likely to be worth it.
I think Superslide is still in a rockfall zone and recommended to avoid the area, but my memory or info could be faulty.
El Cap. I'd be willing to bet that the stuff from the rim will be gone after a week of sun. should be smooth sailing.
But seriously, Parkline, Arch, Cookie, and Pat&Jack are your best choice.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 27, 2011 - 09:02pm PT
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Come here and look around and you'll figure it out real quick .....
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2011 - 10:55pm PT
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I was thinking of Reeds Pinnacle, Five and Dime, Pat & Jack Pinnacle, & Arch Rock as backups if the areas deeper in the Valley are still too wet, snowy, or dangerous. It sounds like I should consider these areas a bit more.
Thanks for the advice!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 28, 2011 - 12:43am PT
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New Diversions and Little Wing might work out too, both fun spots.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 28, 2011 - 01:18am PT
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> El Cap Base - I know this one can be dangerous from stuff falling off of the rim. What should I look for/consider in determining if it is reasonably safe & clear?
Look for visible snow on top of El Cap.
Usually this means ice forms on the rim overnight, and breaks off during the day.
However, even when you can't see snow up there, the ice may be there and will be hard to spot.
If you know the overnight low temp on top of El Cap is lower than freezing, and there was recent precip or existing snow to melt, ice is very likely.
The sizes of ice pieces that come down vary.
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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