Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic |
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 28, 2011 - 08:17pm PT
|
I'm looking for some suggestions for Tollhouse.
I've been aobut 12 times, but am a creature of habit.
I've done almost nothing between Hippo Wall and Tollhouse Traverse but have done everything on Hippo Wall, and have done Center Crack, Frantic Manic,
TT (about 8 times), Stone Shaman, Beg Delight/Beg Right, Ele Walk, Taoist, Left Lane... Loved them all but am getting bored.
Anything 5.10 and under that I NEED to hit up? ESP. Sweet 5.8s and 5.7s as I have a semi-noob with me who will be practicing leading with pro.
I got a yes on Art Baker (sketchy pro?) but anything else???
I have the Vernon guide, and the list of recommended routes, but does anything stand out? Need best of best suggestions,
Thanks!
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Jan 28, 2011 - 08:55pm PT
|
Hang'em High or The Direct.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2011 - 12:48am PT
|
Free & Easy
Hang Em High (got a R rating and no stars though...?)
Art Baker
got it! Thanks!
What about Friday the 13th?
Amphitheater Layback, The Snake, Mineral Magic???????
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2011 - 12:52am PT
|
ps- Oh, just saw weather! Rain Sunday!?! and only 61 degrees on Saturday!
|
|
bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2011 - 01:37am PT
|
My suggestions:
-True Grip
-Direct Start to the Direct
-Shakey Legs
Check the guidebook and you will know why.
Bruce
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2011 - 11:17am PT
|
Its now Half Snake and oh so fun!!
Mineral Magic is good too.
Look for Barry Chambers routes.
|
|
Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2011 - 12:41pm PT
|
I think most of the routes on the main face between the traverses are good. The Direct, Balls and its variations, Headwall. Barry and I put up a direct start to Swallow and added bolts to the original pitch, so I think that is a very good route now. The third pitch is 5.10, but well protected now. The route is between Balls and Headwall and goes directly through the arching roof.
For face difficulty and quality of line at Tollhouse it is hard to beat Arete Already to United Express. Both are very high quality routes, 10c and 10b, I think.
I have always liked Fartin and Belchin, maybe just cause of the name, but the climbing is interesting. The pro placements are tricky, but I think with modern gear there are some good placements when you need them. Been a long time since I last looked at it, but I repeated it a fair amount.
Free and Easy is a classic. Then you could jump on Munge Master or At Your Leisure for extra challenge.
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2011 - 02:07pm PT
|
Hi Paul.....when did you and Barry do that?
Jeremy had told me about it....was Kenny involved?
I guess we were following his chalk marks on the upper pitches of Wandering Taoist last weekend.
I've done United Express but that was like 20yrs. ago.
Time to jump back on it!
|
|
Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
|
Lori and I liked Clovis Club, a nice 6 bolt 10b sport route up an arete on superb rock.
|
|
Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2011 - 04:09pm PT
|
Barry and I rebolted Swallow and added belays and a direct start about 3 or 4 years ago, I think. Barry made a straight line up the third pitch and it is fairly stiff. I think originally I wandered around a bit more and found an easier route, which at the time I thought was 5.8. I was probably hallucinating. The 3rd pitch now seems 5.10 and I was glad that Barry lead it. The second pitch is only 5.6 or so if that. The first pitch follows the headwall route for a short ways up a right wards diagonal crack. Near the end of the crack it heads straight up to an under cling, then follows bolts up the face. The route takes natural pro on the first pitch in the crack and undercling, then a small cam under the roof on the third pitch. Otherwise you just clip bolts. I think it is a very good route.
I always thought that United Express was a great route, but I think I would have a very tough time on it now.
Arete Already is directly beneath and is one of the most interesting routes on the rock, I think. Jay Tipton and I started up that route, but ended up top roping the arete. So if you are willing to count top roping, Jay got the first ascent of that route. I meant to get back to it, but hardly climbed for awhile. I gave Rob Newell my bolt kit with permission to finish it but he also let it sit for a long time. Finally, I got motivated and asked for my bolting gear back, but he had finished the pitch, the week before. The bolts are not quite where I would have liked them, but since I did not have to put them in, I won't complain. I think the name is a play on how long it took to get it done.
There are so many fun 5.7s, 5.8's and 5.9's at Tollhouse that you can stay busy doing moderates for a long time.
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2011 - 04:28pm PT
|
Thanks for that Paul.
|
|
P.Rob
climber
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2011 - 04:14pm PT
|
Greetings Everyone
I hope all is well and that there are still many adventures ahead for all. Seeing that I have been “off the scene” for some time, and with the passage of time both mind and body have experienced the ravages of a misspent youth with little regard to its lasting affects, I humbly submit my remembrances of the establishing of Arête Already.
I had seen this as an obvious line wanting to be done. Knowing that Paul had spent both time and effort in this area (as evidenced by the two bolt belay he had established at the arêtes base) I approached him concerning my want to establish it as a lead. He asked me to hold off if I could, for he still had hopes for it. I have always appreciated and respected Paul, and having been very grateful for the kindness and tolerance he had always shown me, I honored his request.
Over the subsequent weeks, which led into months the route lay unequipped. After some time I started hitting (read pestering) Paul up about his intentions, at which after sometime he relented and stated “have at youth”. I had already received Jay Tipton’s go ahead, so I set out with James Curran & on a wonderful day was able to establish the route on sight, with all drilling from stances. I do not remember borrowing Paul’s bolt kit, as I had my own. The same kit that helped establish Wandering Taoist, Attitudes of the People, Fat Andy, Mi Vida Loca, etc. I used A5 drills and holder, and a technique developed and promoted by Kurt Smith, John Middendorf, et al. that was very effective and allowed one to be able to drill surprisingly fast once they became proficient at it.
I went into Robbins shortly there after with the express interest of reporting to Paul how the route went. I assured him that I met the criteria that he established for me; on sight, no aid or pre-inspection. The routes name was my feeble attempt at levity; its proximity to Paul’s route Maybe’s Baby Paul’s and indeed the time – as I viewed – it took for it to be finally established.
Of all the routes that I have been a part of establishing, Arête Already is particularly meaningful and memorable to me. It represents a moment of time, purpose and passion in my life. I submit these ramblings with no want to offend or hurt, rather to share how I remember the moment – knowing that memories at best are feeble, and decidedly wax and wane over time.
Blessings to all and May you climb with purpose in all you do. I hope no offence was taken Paul, as none was meant and I sincerly thank you again for all the opportunities you gave me.
Montani Semper Liberi
Rob Newell
|
|
| Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!