Dean, I couldn't find it.

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Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 27, 2011 - 03:40pm PT
Couldn't find You Asked For It on Mountain Project.

Tell me a story.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2011 - 04:23pm PT
Wow....


The rating of the crux first pitch is old-school, with moves that on a modern sport climb would be called 5.11 – yet even when old-school ratings were standard, Bachar originally sandbagged locals, calling it 5.10a. The right start variation is Free For All, established three years later by Bachar and Mike Lechlinski. Despite the easier rating, You Asked For It sees far less traffic than the Bachar/Yerian, probably because the hard climbing is more dangerous, slabs are not in fashion, and the climb is “only 5.10.” You Asked For It has a ledge to hit for the crux first pitch, and sustained slab climbing with gigantic fall potential on lower-angled rock, while 50 to 90-foot falls off of the Bachar/Yerian result in huge air time but not that many serious injuries.


He called it 10a? Sandbagging is a direct quote from the supertopo route section.
I know John was the man and all, but I have to say that sounds like a dangerous dick move.


Got any pix Dean?
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2011 - 04:28pm PT



Another place calls it 5.10c X !

Bullwinkle

Boulder climber
Jan 27, 2011 - 06:26pm PT
I'll try and dig around for some photo's I know a couple of people that were there. . .
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2011 - 04:17am PT
Wow, thanks Dean. I am sooo glad I did not find myself in that situation.

I have had enough undie-soiler moments to know I won't be going on any 3 pitch meadow routes with only 4 bolts total....

Keith and I did an early ascent of Chartes in 77. At that time there was NO fixed gear on it. (none that I found...)

It was "stimulating" enough without anything breaking off on me!!
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2011 - 04:19am PT
Bullwinkle, I'd love to see the pics if you find them!
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2011 - 11:38am PT
Has anybody else around here done this route??

Sounds like a horror show.....
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jan 28, 2011 - 12:49pm PT
Has anybody else around here done this route??

Sounds like a horror show.....

Mike Waugh has logged several or more ascents of You Asked For It. He's not an internet type - I'll ask him if he has any pics and how many times when I see him at Stoney Point.
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Jan 28, 2011 - 01:04pm PT
Alan Nelson WayBack Machine addition: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=578170&msg=582342#msg582342

If you scroll back through that post Roy posted an article Alan wrote about Tuolumne for an old issue of Climbing. Interesting stuff. Keeps the riff-raff off.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 28, 2011 - 01:34pm PT
John was consistent in his ratings...just add two letter grades and it makes its own sauce. Spicy sauce!
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Jan 28, 2011 - 03:55pm PT
Mike Waugh has logged several or more ascents of You Asked For It.

Just saw Mike yesterday...

He used to do it every year, until he took the big ride. From what I understand he missed the ledge but still got pretty banged up. Afterwards his kid says "My daddy asked for it...and he got it" Don't know how many times he did it though. I'll ask him next time if Kris don't beat me to it.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2011 - 06:43pm PT
He used to do it every year, until he took the big ride. From what I understand he missed the ledge but still got pretty banged up.

Mike W. went for the big whip up there?

Now there's a story I'd like to hear also!

See Dean, it ain't so bad, Mike did it! HA HA HA!!!


Edit: If you ever hear me babbling about going up there, slap my lips off would ya?

Either that or beat me like a runaway slave...
(That line comes from Samuel Jackson, not me!)
Anastasia

climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
Jan 28, 2011 - 06:54pm PT
John set that up after getting hassled for using hooks on the Bachar Yerian, hence the name "You asked for it." He did it without hooks and yes... Sand bagged it for added measure.

He also was a bit grumpy that no one has correctly marked "Bombs over Tokyo." I think it was one of his favorite lines.

AFS
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jan 28, 2011 - 09:27pm PT
The way I heard it Mike Waugh had done the route a bunch of times. Every year as Matt says. Old as Mike is that is a lot of ascents. Then one day he went up to do it. It was too hot but he was confident. Banged his head pretty good the way I heard it.
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Feb 4, 2011 - 01:00am PT
dana hauser and i did the third ascent in 83, after alan nelson and rob oravetz did the second. i used it as training for the bachar yerian. i remember being mildly gripped, but i was used to free soling up to 5.9 face, and on routes like this, you just had to switch gears and climb like you were soling. ss
mike waugh may have done the second, but i definitely did it before coz
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Feb 4, 2011 - 01:12am PT
I talked with Mike on Tuesday about this. He couldn't remember exactly how many times he did it, at least six at most nine was his description. Never did it again after he fell. Didn't ask him when he first did it.
Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic
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