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Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 27, 2011 - 03:40pm PT
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Couldn't find You Asked For It on Mountain Project.
Tell me a story.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2011 - 04:23pm PT
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Wow....
The rating of the crux first pitch is old-school, with moves that on a modern sport climb would be called 5.11 – yet even when old-school ratings were standard, Bachar originally sandbagged locals, calling it 5.10a. The right start variation is Free For All, established three years later by Bachar and Mike Lechlinski. Despite the easier rating, You Asked For It sees far less traffic than the Bachar/Yerian, probably because the hard climbing is more dangerous, slabs are not in fashion, and the climb is “only 5.10.” You Asked For It has a ledge to hit for the crux first pitch, and sustained slab climbing with gigantic fall potential on lower-angled rock, while 50 to 90-foot falls off of the Bachar/Yerian result in huge air time but not that many serious injuries.
He called it 10a? Sandbagging is a direct quote from the supertopo route section.
I know John was the man and all, but I have to say that sounds like a dangerous dick move.
Got any pix Dean?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2011 - 04:28pm PT
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Another place calls it 5.10c X !
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Jan 27, 2011 - 06:26pm PT
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I'll try and dig around for some photo's I know a couple of people that were there. . .
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2011 - 04:17am PT
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Wow, thanks Dean. I am sooo glad I did not find myself in that situation.
I have had enough undie-soiler moments to know I won't be going on any 3 pitch meadow routes with only 4 bolts total....
Keith and I did an early ascent of Chartes in 77. At that time there was NO fixed gear on it. (none that I found...)
It was "stimulating" enough without anything breaking off on me!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2011 - 04:19am PT
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Bullwinkle, I'd love to see the pics if you find them!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2011 - 11:38am PT
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Has anybody else around here done this route??
Sounds like a horror show.....
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 28, 2011 - 12:49pm PT
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Has anybody else around here done this route??
Sounds like a horror show.....
Mike Waugh has logged several or more ascents of You Asked For It. He's not an internet type - I'll ask him if he has any pics and how many times when I see him at Stoney Point.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 28, 2011 - 01:34pm PT
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John was consistent in his ratings...just add two letter grades and it makes its own sauce. Spicy sauce!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Jan 28, 2011 - 03:55pm PT
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Mike Waugh has logged several or more ascents of You Asked For It.
Just saw Mike yesterday...
He used to do it every year, until he took the big ride. From what I understand he missed the ledge but still got pretty banged up. Afterwards his kid says "My daddy asked for it...and he got it" Don't know how many times he did it though. I'll ask him next time if Kris don't beat me to it.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2011 - 06:43pm PT
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He used to do it every year, until he took the big ride. From what I understand he missed the ledge but still got pretty banged up.
Mike W. went for the big whip up there?
Now there's a story I'd like to hear also!
See Dean, it ain't so bad, Mike did it! HA HA HA!!!
Edit: If you ever hear me babbling about going up there, slap my lips off would ya?
Either that or beat me like a runaway slave...
(That line comes from Samuel Jackson, not me!)
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Jan 28, 2011 - 06:54pm PT
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John set that up after getting hassled for using hooks on the Bachar Yerian, hence the name "You asked for it." He did it without hooks and yes... Sand bagged it for added measure.
He also was a bit grumpy that no one has correctly marked "Bombs over Tokyo." I think it was one of his favorite lines.
AFS
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 28, 2011 - 09:27pm PT
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The way I heard it Mike Waugh had done the route a bunch of times. Every year as Matt says. Old as Mike is that is a lot of ascents. Then one day he went up to do it. It was too hot but he was confident. Banged his head pretty good the way I heard it.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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dana hauser and i did the third ascent in 83, after alan nelson and rob oravetz did the second. i used it as training for the bachar yerian. i remember being mildly gripped, but i was used to free soling up to 5.9 face, and on routes like this, you just had to switch gears and climb like you were soling. ss
mike waugh may have done the second, but i definitely did it before coz
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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I talked with Mike on Tuesday about this. He couldn't remember exactly how many times he did it, at least six at most nine was his description. Never did it again after he fell. Didn't ask him when he first did it.
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