Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2011 - 10:54pm PT
|
I've often thought lots of things about climbing above pro when ice climbing....
How does the biner hang off the hanger, is it clean to the ice.....is there cross loading cause of an ice bulge.....
I use the Grivel 360 pretty much all the time......Climb quite a bit...this is a good question, and some thing to add to the above all quote in ice climbing
"Never Fall"
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2011 - 10:57pm PT
|
Great article. Thanks for the post.
Prod.
|
|
Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2011 - 11:23pm PT
|
This is an eye-opener for sure. I will keep an eye on the attitude of my BD Express screw handles!
Thanks,
Thor
|
|
pvalchev
Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2011 - 12:28am PT
|
Known issue, and specifically highlighted in the instructions for BD express screws. See:
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/uploads/black-diamond/files/MM5820_D_Ice_Pro_InstSheetWEB.pdf
Specifically the paragraph:
"""
When placing the Express Ice Screw, flip the handle out after the
screw is started and stable, then turn the hanger in a clockwise
direction using the handle. ALWAYS flip the handle to the closed
position after placing the screw.
"""
I can't say I've never missed to do this, but I've always been aware of it, and so have other people I've climbed with...
|
|
Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2011 - 12:31am PT
|
Several things to take out of this article include using the right screw length to have it fully flush into the ice, keep the knobs down and don't use screws with knobs that stick up, make sure foldable knobs are always flipped down, try to find placements that naturally protect the hangar (when available).
|
|
RDB
Social climber
wa
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2011 - 01:37am PT
|
"Known issue, and specifically highlighted in the instructions for BD"
Yes known. But note it was a BD memo not mine. This was the first time an accident was investigated that the knob was almost the deciding factor in a fall.
Never hurts to get a reminder or be made aware of it.
I also don't believe all fixed knob screws are the same, which one might think with a quick read of the English synopsis.
Classic case from the previous post:
"keep the knobs down and don't use screws with knobs that stick up"
All fixed knobs are NOT equal. I find little fault with the Grivel Helix. No more than I do with the BD Express if they are set with some thought. A close look at both designs and then actually using them will quickly tell you that I suspect.
|
|
pvalchev
Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2011 - 02:19am PT
|
RDB, thank you for bringing up this article to everyone's attention - it is a good read and more awareness is always good. I didn't mean to imply it was obvious and unnecessary to bring it up - I just wanted to say that BD foresaw the issue, and it is in the instruction booklet. (Sometimes things come across the wrong way it seems!)
|
|
RDB
Social climber
wa
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2011 - 02:28am PT
|
No worries Peter. Just wanted to make the point to be aware and check the screws you use and how. I always set the knob down but never thought much past it really as to why. And certainly never worried about the Helix even though a buddy who does climbing gear R&D work in the industry as told me there just might be an issue. I just blew that off casually as I know he really likes the Express screws. best, Dane
|
|
| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!