Cajon pass climbing

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Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic

Damn this looks high

Trad climber

Temecula, CA

Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 14, 2010 - 11:20pm PT

Anyone have any information about climbing in the Cajon Pass area between San Berdo and Hesperia? Looks like some really climbable features/boulders near the railroad tracks.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Nov 15, 2010 - 01:16am PT

Devils Punchbowl

Chaz

Trad climber

greater Boss Angeles area

Nov 15, 2010 - 01:44am PT

The ones I've seen seem like they're falling apart, like big clumps of cat-litter. I haven't done any real exploring around there, though.

Port

Trad climber

San Diego

Nov 15, 2010 - 01:56am PT

I think every climber who lives in SD or LA and takes the 15 north to Red Rocks or Bishop has wondered about climbing there....but I know if no one who has actually done it.

Johnny K.

Mountain climber

Southern,California

Nov 15, 2010 - 04:34am PT

Mormon rocks.The climbing there is not "destination climbing",though there is some easy access minimal hike to a couple routes on the bigger slab face by the tracks,and its pretty nostalgic feel being there,especially with all the history and the HIDDEN GOLD ;).If you like slab climbing on grit with not the greatest protection,then its a decent place to have a few laps.Its fun to go at least once,to say you went,haha,These routes have been up for years and years.There is a 5.6 or so that is protected by two "slammered" in pitons,for the whole pitch.Good anchors.Also a 5.8 2 pitch,which is well protected by 1/4er's,though majority of them are spinners/hangerless etc,anchors at top are really good.Holds are all good,friction is good,though you might pull a hold of here and there :P
Then there is an unknown route which is pretty much all hangerless with some decent moves to pull,probably goes at around low 10's compared to the other routes.I have never seen anyone out there,except a couple rangers(who were very nice)and SAR teams practicing some drills.

Damn this looks high

Trad climber

Temecula, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2010 - 09:22am PT

JB and Chaz, great pics. Thanks for the info. It's funny, I'm seeing climbs and potential climbs everywhere now that I have shoes and a small amount of skill. Used to just see rocks.

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber

wussing off the topout on Roadside Attraction

Nov 15, 2010 - 09:49am PT

Oboy, you're in trouble now....

Iron Mtn.

Trad climber

Corona, Ca.

Nov 16, 2010 - 12:49am PT

I've done some pretty heavy duty exploration in that area and unfortunately unless you drop epoxy all over those rocks it's pretty much all choss with the exception of those established routes which can be said as dicey at best.
Total bummer, so much rock, so little that can be climbed....

Brandon

Trad climber

Santa Maria, CA

Nov 17, 2010 - 11:53pm PT

I did some climbing at Mormon Rocks when I first started climbing in the early 90s. In the second picture of this discussion I placed some TR bolts on that prominent black streak. When I tried climbing the streak all the cobbles would pull out, so I bailed. The only place to have a descent route is on the slab side. The best route I put up there(around '93, still in High School) was .10- and 2 pitches long, called Sandstone Balls. I placed "good" 3/8" bolts. The end of the second pitch belayed on a horizonal ledge next to a bush, almost at the top. I have a topo somewhere. I went back years later and someone had stole some/most of the hangars.

The first time I was exploring around Mormon Rocks I found star dryvins(~2.5" long) that had been placed in the '60s or '70s with old Leeper hangers. The older routes mainly followed water grooves with big cobbles. In the case of one route, the rock had eroded from around the bolts and only ~1" was embedded in the rock. I remember climbing this route and girth hitching the studs as pro. I didn't realize how shallow they were until one pulled out of the rock with my fingers. By now all those bolts are probably in a pile at the base.