Little Cottonwood Canyon classics

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Friend

climber

Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 11, 2010 - 01:08pm PT

Hi, any LCC locals online?

I will probably be passing through next week and am interested in recommendations for classic, well-protected crack climbs in the 5.9-5.11 range. Would love to see some killer photos too.

Thanks in advance!

Brian in SLC

Social climber

Salt Lake City, UT

Oct 11, 2010 - 01:47pm PT

Hit up the mountainproject website. You can choose "LCC" as the area, then use the toolbar for specific routes for you in that area. Choose a grade range, and, the star system to find the best stuff. Its fairly complete.

Coffin Crack, Mexican Crack, Bong Eater, Tick Fever, Gordon's Hangover, Crack-in-the-Woods (followed by Hand Jive which is "only" 5.8 but worth doing for sure). Sasquatch. Satan's Corner (also only 5.8 but good pro and a great route). Green A (aka "Serenity Crack" ha ha). Touch Up. Wheels on Fire. Altered States. Etc etc etc.

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC (who can see LCC right...now...lookin' a little cloudy up that way).

Thorgon

Big Wall climber

Sedro Woolley, WA

Oct 11, 2010 - 02:57pm PT

TINGEY'S TERROR!

Fun back in the day with the manky 1/4" bolt at the end of the traverse, my buddy Wildman took a super-long sceamer when he dove for the bolt in 1983! Ripped a hole through the seat of his Patagonia work pants. Guess we should have done Split Pants. LOL

Thor

P.P.S. Looking at the 84 Ellison/Smoot Guide it may have been Tourist Trap, that is the one I have highlighted!

bjj

climber

beyond the sun

Oct 11, 2010 - 03:14pm PT

Coffin Crack, Mexican Crack, Bong Eater, Tick Fever, Gordon's Hangover, Crack-in-the-Woods (followed by Hand Jive which is "only" 5.8 but worth doing for sure). Sasquatch. Satan's Corner (also only 5.8 but good pro and a great route). Green A (aka "Serenity Crack" ha ha). Touch Up. Wheels on Fire. Altered States. Etc etc etc.

Agree with all those. Also include "Stiffler's Mom", which (I have not had a chance to do it yet) is supposed to be a new classic over by the Pentapitch area (home to Sasquatch) and Bong Eater (see pic). Crux is some 5.10d offwidth at the top (which can be liebacked if you lack the proper skills, as I do).

Don't forget that LCC is also home to some extremely good bouldering.

Brian in SLC

Social climber

Salt Lake City, UT

Oct 11, 2010 - 03:20pm PT

That's the hand eater variation? A great way to start Bong Eater.

OP asked for well protected cracks, but, some of the face stuff is really classic too. And, a shame to miss.

Yeah, need to get on Stiffler's Mom myself. The climb. Ha ha.

bjj

climber

beyond the sun

Oct 11, 2010 - 03:24pm PT

Oh sh#t, missed the part about specifically asking for cracks. But, as Brian says, lots of good face jobs that shouldn't be missed.

Yes, handeater. Way good. That whole route is such a classic. I fell out of the OW on my first try. Pulled the rope then went again and liebacked the top. Lowered back to try and do it OW style and was barely able to complete it that way. Yuck. Another pic:

Friend

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2010 - 04:18pm PT

Ah, this thread is starting to shape up.... thanks for the beta guys.....

Sweet photos! More please?

So far, my pathetically minimal experience in LCC consists of the Coffin crack and the Mexican crack, both of which I thought were fantastic. We stopped by for a morning on our way back from Moab. Been looking forward to going back.

Yep, I've perused mp.com and have the big Stewart Green UT guidebook. Getting the inside scoop from locals is always the best though. More photos!