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Friend
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 11, 2010 - 01:08pm PT
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Hi, any LCC locals online?
I will probably be passing through next week and am interested in recommendations for classic, well-protected crack climbs in the 5.9-5.11 range. Would love to see some killer photos too.
Thanks in advance!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Oct 11, 2010 - 01:47pm PT
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Hit up the mountainproject website. You can choose "LCC" as the area, then use the toolbar for specific routes for you in that area. Choose a grade range, and, the star system to find the best stuff. Its fairly complete.
Coffin Crack, Mexican Crack, Bong Eater, Tick Fever, Gordon's Hangover, Crack-in-the-Woods (followed by Hand Jive which is "only" 5.8 but worth doing for sure). Sasquatch. Satan's Corner (also only 5.8 but good pro and a great route). Green A (aka "Serenity Crack" ha ha). Touch Up. Wheels on Fire. Altered States. Etc etc etc.
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC (who can see LCC right...now...lookin' a little cloudy up that way).
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Oct 11, 2010 - 02:57pm PT
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TINGEY'S TERROR!
Fun back in the day with the manky 1/4" bolt at the end of the traverse, my buddy Wildman took a super-long sceamer when he dove for the bolt in 1983! Ripped a hole through the seat of his Patagonia work pants. Guess we should have done Split Pants. LOL
Thor
P.P.S. Looking at the 84 Ellison/Smoot Guide it may have been Tourist Trap, that is the one I have highlighted!
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Oct 11, 2010 - 03:14pm PT
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Coffin Crack, Mexican Crack, Bong Eater, Tick Fever, Gordon's Hangover, Crack-in-the-Woods (followed by Hand Jive which is "only" 5.8 but worth doing for sure). Sasquatch. Satan's Corner (also only 5.8 but good pro and a great route). Green A (aka "Serenity Crack" ha ha). Touch Up. Wheels on Fire. Altered States. Etc etc etc.
Agree with all those. Also include "Stiffler's Mom", which (I have not had a chance to do it yet) is supposed to be a new classic over by the Pentapitch area (home to Sasquatch) and Bong Eater (see pic). Crux is some 5.10d offwidth at the top (which can be liebacked if you lack the proper skills, as I do).
Don't forget that LCC is also home to some extremely good bouldering.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Oct 11, 2010 - 03:20pm PT
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That's the hand eater variation? A great way to start Bong Eater.
OP asked for well protected cracks, but, some of the face stuff is really classic too. And, a shame to miss.
Yeah, need to get on Stiffler's Mom myself. The climb. Ha ha.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Oct 11, 2010 - 03:24pm PT
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Oh sh#t, missed the part about specifically asking for cracks. But, as Brian says, lots of good face jobs that shouldn't be missed.
Yes, handeater. Way good. That whole route is such a classic. I fell out of the OW on my first try. Pulled the rope then went again and liebacked the top. Lowered back to try and do it OW style and was barely able to complete it that way. Yuck. Another pic:
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Friend
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2010 - 04:18pm PT
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Ah, this thread is starting to shape up.... thanks for the beta guys.....
Sweet photos! More please?
So far, my pathetically minimal experience in LCC consists of the Coffin crack and the Mexican crack, both of which I thought were fantastic. We stopped by for a morning on our way back from Moab. Been looking forward to going back.
Yep, I've perused mp.com and have the big Stewart Green UT guidebook. Getting the inside scoop from locals is always the best though. More photos!
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Oct 11, 2010 - 11:03pm PT
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Bushwack Crack...
Thor
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Oct 12, 2010 - 09:00pm PT
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Bushwack Crack indeed:
Nice for an end of the day burn or three.
Toss out a few more:
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Oct 12, 2010 - 09:05pm PT
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tricky move right after that traverse, if i remember correctly...
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andy@climbingmoab
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Oct 20, 2010 - 06:09pm PT
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Half a Finger and the Equipment Overhangs are good while you are by Satan's Corner.
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