Rope Cutting Fron Worn Carabiners

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Messages 1 - 6 of total 6 in this topic
Gunks Guy

Trad climber
Woodstock, NY
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 4, 2010 - 09:38pm PT
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/knowledge/qc-lab-dangers-of-rope-worn-carabiners

I don't climb on fixed draws very much, but this is pretty surprising to me as I would have expected the biners to wear in a more rounded profile.

Also, who falls on biners that look like that? I'm a cheap SOB, but even I'd replace something that looked that bad.

Gravity is a bitch folks.
Thorgon

Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
Oct 4, 2010 - 11:14pm PT
Totally agree, I would replace them first and I am also a cheap S.O.B.! This is case where a steel biner would be a better option!!!



Thor
Scared Silly

Trad climber
UT
Oct 4, 2010 - 11:31pm PT
Good comment from Malcolm Daly

... I'll add one thing here and say that worn carabiners at the top or crux draws are usually worn in a radiused profile and are less likely to wear to a sharp edge. First bolt and out-of-line draws, however, are almost alway worn in a manner which leaves one or two sharp edges. Also, don't be lulled into complacency by steel. Sure, it will take longer to wear that aluminum, but it will wear regardless. Check all your "fixies".


I never worry about routes with fixed gear cause if has fixed gear on it means I can't climb it. HAHA.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Oct 4, 2010 - 11:32pm PT
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Oct 5, 2010 - 10:20am PT
Just bumping interesting crap.
EdBannister

Mountain climber
CA
Oct 5, 2010 - 12:13pm PT
Climber's version of the Darwin Awards.
Messages 1 - 6 of total 6 in this topic
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