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carter
Trad climber
Fremont, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 10, 2010 - 01:40am PT
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On Monday my partner and I went and climbed the Northeast Couloir on North Peak. We wear a little nervous about their being enough ice to satisfy the expectations of non Californian ice climbers. We were pleasantly surprised to discover that probably 85% of the Couloir was great ice! About 3 full pitches of ice! Im not to sure why so many books and website say its 6 pitches.
A view of North Peak from the approach
The Northest Couloir
The Northeast Couloir
Approaching the ice
The first pitch
Following the second pitch
Following the second pitch
Near the top of the Couloir
Get out there and get it before its ski season!
Carter
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flakyfoont
Trad climber
carsoncity nv
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Sep 10, 2010 - 01:55am PT
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always liked that climb. looks like excellant conditions.
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Sep 10, 2010 - 02:55am PT
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drool
Ice porn.
drool
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superbum
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Sep 14, 2010 - 04:26am PT
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Just did this today! What a joy to be able to leave Bishop at a leisurely 8:30am...hike in, eat smoked salmon, cruise this gully in one long simul pitch, hang out on the summit, and be back well before dinner! Eastside Love....
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superbum
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Sep 14, 2010 - 04:32am PT
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Whoop, forgot to mention some condition info...
The 'shrund is only halfway open...no problems there.
Once you enter the mouth of the coulior you've got 50+ feet of neve that gives way to beautiful blue ice! Kinda getting picked out a bit, but many of the holes were filled in nicely as well. Towards the top, things began to get a little wetter...not drippy, but deff. cruiser hero sticks, caused by the sun hitting the very top for a coupla hours around noon.
Nice boulder to sling for belay at very top.
Call in sick!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Sep 14, 2010 - 08:56am PT
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Nice work ! Any closer shots of the left couloir ?
(first pic makes it look like all neve still)
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superbum
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Sep 14, 2010 - 10:14pm PT
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The left coulior is f*#ked. completly brown from dirt and rocks. ugh.
the right, main coulior is most deff. 80% blue ice. Look at the first set of photos above...thats what it looked like...
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Sep 17, 2010 - 01:17am PT
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There are actually three couloirs on North Peak's north face: left, middle and right. The right one is most commonly climbed. The middle one frequently looks dirty, and I only know one person who has climbed it. I soloed the left one in neve conditions in Sept. 2006.
Here's a shot from Wednesday -
Left one looks pretty similar to 2006 -- mostly neve, and a mixed part about three quarters of the way up.
I chatted with a couple of guys who did the right couloir on my descent from the NW Ridge. They said they had a good time.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Sep 17, 2010 - 06:21am PT
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Rob - nice.
Looks similar to what I found on 9/8/10 when I climbed both the leftmost and rightmost couloirs:
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Sep 26, 2010 - 11:06am PT
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Climbed the right couloir with rwedgee on Friday -
We soloed up the snow to the first patch of ice and belayed from there.
Pitch 1
Pitch 2
Pitch 3
Short last pitch in the sun
Hadn't been on this couloir since 2006, good times :)
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