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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 6, 2010 - 02:44am PT
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This review is posted HERE with pictures, measured specifications, and a movie. Below is a copy of the text.
Totem cams have come up with a truly innovative design that holds much potential to provide excellent holding power in tricky placements while at the same time maintaining a large expansion range and light weight. For a link to their website, click HERE.
How do they do this? Well, there is no “stem” on a Totem cam, and the axle is not what bears the load. While the cams rotate around an axle, load bearing cables wrap up and around a pin on the back of each lobe, and extend down past a trigger to a loop below. There are at least four unique aspects of this design.
1. It is possible to isolate and load only two lobes of a Totem Cam. While Totem recommends this for aid climbing and body weight placements, it is not recommended for holding falls. This halves the strength of the cam and adds instability to the placement. To see a picture of this configuration click HERE and instructions of how to maximize holding power with two lobes, click HERE.
2. Due to the unique design and the direct loading on each lobe, there is equalization of each loaded lobe.
3. The camming angle of the lobes relative to the axle is different than its effective camming angle, since they rotate around an axle but are loaded on a pin on the back of the lobe. Due to a larger camming angle, these cams have the potential to hold in downward flares of up to 40 degrees. For Totem’s technical explanation of this, click HERE.
4. Due to this unique design, Totem Cams have the largest expansion range of any single axle symmetrical cam on the market, comparable to Black Diamond’s C4 double axle design.
The cams come in a set of 5. From smallest to largest, they are blue, yellow, purple, green, and red. They are roughly the same size as the blue and yellow Metolius, and the purple, green, and red C4s, which works perfectly for me since those are the cams I’ve climbed on for years.
I work in a quality control laboratory and brought them in for a few quick measurements. I threw them on the calibrated scale, and measured them with calibrated calipers. The results were pretty close to what is claimed on Totem’s website, with the exception of the blue (smallest) cam which was a full millimeter larger, when fully cammed, than claimed. Just to confirm, I measured this three times and had 0.01mm difference between the three measurements. Other than that discrepancy, the cams generally had slightly more range than claimed, and the weights were within about a gram of what was claimed.
Someone asked me to measure the head width, which I did, because these cams probably have the narrowest heads on the market. If you’re curious about how other cams compare, then just grab a ruler and measure whichever brand you’ve got handy.
So far, I have taken them out for a few days on the rock at Mt. Woodson, Tahquitz, Suicide, and the Needles, all granite areas. I replaced one set of blue and yellow Metolius, and purple, green and red C4s on my double rack with the Totem Cams and used them head to head with the other cams. They’ve taken falls by my friends and I, and held every time. I’ve hung on them using only two lobes, but overall I haven’t gotten around to really pushing their limits for two reasons: I don’t want to break one early in the review process, and I haven’t had time yet!
So, what are benefits of Totem Cams over other cams on the market? They have an innovative elegant design that increases holding power in flares, and increases camming range for a single axle design. They have a similar expansion range to Black Diamond C4s but are slightly lighter. I believe the smaller sizes have more expansion range than most competing small cams, like for example Metolius TCUs. The color scheme matches at least some of the popular brands on the market. The thumb loop is large, easy to use, and would work well with gloves. The sling material, while bulky, is quite good for French free climbing (yes, I got completely shut down on a climb in the Needles). The narrow cam head width has helped in some placements, and is definitely beneficial. Also, without a proper stem these cams are obscenely flexible without compromising on usability at all.
I know this is subjective, but these cams just feel damn solid when they’re set. We’ve fallen on them repeatedly and they’ve held every time. So far, in my opinion, Totem Cams represent a true improvement in cam design and functionality. I’m impressed.
While the upsides to the cams are many, there are downsides as well. As of yet, there are only 5 cams to a set. This is a limited range, and so a typical rack would require more brands of cams. Intentionally or not, they have done a good job of sizing the cams with some other popular brands, so this problem may be minimized depending on what brand of cams you climb on. The Totem Cams are currently expensive. They retail for $80 a piece, and if you purchase less than a full set the shipping fee is nearly $30.
The design, while light, is relatively bulky. It is not nearly as low profile as many other cams on the market when hanging on a gear loop. There are a total of 12 wires descending from the head of the cam. 8 are from the 4 load bearing loops, and there is a trigger wire for each lobe as well. This part of the cam can interfere with rare placements, and I did find a great placement for a cam with a constriction under it that I had to switch to a TCU instead of a Totem Cam because the wires did not fit through the constriction as the placement required.
When the trigger is pulled and the cam lobes fully retracted, the bottom of the cam lobes actually wraps all the way under and contacts the load bearing wires. My first thought was that there is no additional “play” for the lobes if the cam becomes overcammed. I assumed that this would make cleaning the cams more difficult, if not impossible, in such situations. While this still raises red flags for me, my partners and I have plugged these things desperately, overcammed them, and climbed on. Each time whoever was following was able to retrieve the overcammed units out in under a minute, just like any other cam.
This is a relatively preliminary review. I’ve had the cams for over a month now, and I haven’t had nearly the time I would like to fully evaluate them. However, may people are VERY curious about these and so I thought I’d release my findings so far. There are multiple things that I intend to investigate going forward. The four things that I’d like to continue to look at are as follows:
1. I would like to know how these things work for aid climbing. While I have aided in the past, I just don’t really aid climb these days. I thought I lined up someone to take the Totem Cams up a wall in Yosemite, but that has apparently fallen through. However, serendipitously, a representative from Totem will actually be in Yosemite allowing climbers to demo them and take them up climbs. A link to sign up for the demo is HERE. While these cams have impressed me so far, I believe this is an area where the cams may truly shine. I look forward to hearing what aid climbers think of these things in the near future!
2. I would like to see how robust the cams are. The blue Totem Cam has held our largest fall to date, and it put a decent bite in the lobe. Perhaps they are softer metal? Someone more knowledgeable about metallurgy may be able to clarify. Like Aliens, this could increase holding power but decrease life expectancy. It could also have just been bad luck since the cam was set behind a crystal. It didn’t affect functionality, but my 00 TCU looked less dented after Roberto took a 25’ fall on it on the same climb. I won’t really have an opinion about robustness until I’ve spend more than a month and a half with the things and there’s not much of a point in putting a lot of stock in a single data point.
3. As mentioned above, I’m concerned about cleaning the Totem Cams. I’m less concerned with cleaning them since we’ve been able to retrieve overcammed units every time so far with little problem, but I feel that I need data points to have a final opinion.
4. Lastly, I’d like to really test these things out in some poor placements: flares, two lobes, etc. I’d like to set them with two lobes and take some small falls on them. I know it’s not recommended, but the curiosity is killing me. I need to be patient, however, since if I break one I can’t review it anymore so I’ll save that for last.
For the moment, I’m happy to have them on my rack. They are much lighter than the old style Black Diamond Camalots the larger three are replacing. While the smaller two are heavier than the Metolius TCUs they have more expansion range and the weight difference isn’t huge. I really like having a single set of these on my rack. Due to their bulkiness on the harness, and the larger weight in the smaller sizes I wouldn’t want to carry more than a single set. Due to their different design, I can fit them in some places better than a Metolius TCU or BD C4, and vice versa. Having a different brand of cams on my harness is opening up more quality placement options.
In conclusion, if you have the cash, you’d be very happy to have a set of these on your harness. Due to cost, bulkiness, and a lack of information about robustness, I wouldn’t recommend getting more than that yet. If you’re an aid climber who likes “toys” I would DEFINITELY pick up a set. Expect a sequel to this review at least a few months from now once I’ve had the chance to put a lot of mileage on them.
Josh Higgins
P.S. I apologize for saying that this review would come out sooner than it did. I’m working full time and going to school full time so it’s been brutal finding time!
Note: These cams were provided free of charge under the agreement that a review would be written and posted on the internet. Before they were sent, I specifically informed Totem Cams that despite receiving them for free, I would not favor the cams in any way in my review. This is my honest opinion of them with no strings attached.
Edit: Hyperlinks didn't copy and paste...
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Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples.... ಠ_ಠ
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The design, while light, is relatively bulky. It is not nearly as low profile as many other cams on the market when hanging on a gear loop. There are a total of 12 wires descending from the head of the cam. 8 are from the 4 load bearing loops, and there is a trigger wire for each lobe as well. This part of the cam can interfere with rare placements, and I did find a nut-like placement for a cam that I had to switch to a TCU instead of a Totem Cam because the wires did not fit through a constriction the placement required
Who does the heck does this? I know some cams are designed with this in mind (BD) but really, why would you risk damaging (bent axle, deformed lobes) a $60-$80 piece of equipment in a fall, rather than a $5-$10 nut? Eh....whatever....
I have heard about these bad boys through the internet and so far, everyone I have asked about it, around the crags, has never heard of them. Their first response when I try to describe the mechanism through which it operates usually is along the lines of, "Why the f*#k would you want to make it more complicated?" And with no reviews yet about the claims of better holding power in flares and better aid placements....well I guess I will just wait.
Interesting idea though...
-n
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2010 - 03:11am PT
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It's hard to explain... A parallel crack with a constriction under it that wouldn't hold a nut really. It was definitely a cam placement, but it looked like something you'd put a nut in if it were a shaped a little different. You'd understand if you saw it. The stem/cables just needed to point down in case of a fall and needed to fit freely in the constriction.
I'll try to reword this section tomorrow. I'm freaking wiped after putting all the video, hyperlinks, and text together.
Josh
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WBraun
climber
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Josh -- "I’d like to really test these things out in some poor placements: flares, two lobes, etc"
Yes, this would be nice and interesting.
Thanks Josh for your awesome review and looking forward to the "poor placements: flares, two lobes" results.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2010 - 11:09am PT
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Werner, you're welcome. You're located in Yosemite, correct? In my review, provided a link to sign up to test drive these things in Yosemite starting Sept 15th. If you (or anyone you know) has time, grab a set a give them a go!
The link to sign up again.
Josh
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Thanks Josh!!!!! Appreciate the review and heads up. Love to see how they do in flaring pin scars. A land ruled by the old Offset Aliens.
Interesting that they early reviewers on Mt Project said that they liked them but they'd stick with their BD's and Metolius cams, (Totems are bulky and expensive) and neither or them commented that one of the main purported benefit's of Totems, ie, ability to utilize only 2 lobes, has been functionally claimed to be done by Splitter cams for a few years already. Perhaps the "benefit" of using only 2 lobes is of minimal use.
http://www.trango.com/protection/splitter_cams
The Splitter 4Cams utilize a direct-offset cam arrangement which keeps the head extremely narrow allowing you to tuck them into tight pods and flares. The design also lets you hang them off a single pair of cams (think shallow pin-scars) and still have enough strength to catch a reasonable fall. All sizes use our signature doubled UltraTape slings so you can clip in at three different lengths. All this and they are still one of the lightest and best value cams on the planet.
For myself, I own a rack of Splitters, but they don't touch the offset Aliens. I'd rather not spend a kings ransom for a new bulky cam that doesn't get me the performance of an Offset, which I've even been using on free climbs quite joyfully.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2010 - 12:05am PT
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Couchmaster,
I have some old Splitter 2 cams (prototypes?) in the garage. However, I don't aid climb so I don't use them. If I went up a wall aid climbing I might dig them out. I've never actually seen Trango's 4 cam unit. The difference is, the Totem Cams have other benefits outside of just two lobe placements like increased expansion range and the theoretical ability to hold in poor placements.
That is a good point that you bring up though, that the two lobe design has already been implemented previously.
While you've been happy with your aliens, others have not due to their lack of QC and the fact that they are out of business. I'm looking forward to hearing what aid climbers think of the Totem Cams.
Josh
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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Well, Aliens have a limited lifespan, so you'll get your wish in due course.
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Hey, we'd be happy to test them on a wall we're doing in about 2 weeks...with a lot of crummy pin scars, just the thing for these, maybe.
We've got Aliens (regular and offset), offset Master Cams, couple of offset Tech Friends, C3s, C4s, Metolius TCUs and FCUs (in red size), and other stuff (Zeros) too small to be a comparison.
As for the metal, the cams of Aliens are 6061 alloy; Master Cams are 7075, which is indeed harder (you can search around for info on hardness of aluminum alloys if you wish). Totem cam doesn't say what theirs are made of.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2010 - 11:40am PT
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If the wall is in Yosemite, why don't you just grab a set directly from the Totem Cam representative that will be in Yosemite doing a demo in two weeks? I linked to it twice already.
Josh
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climbingcook
Trad climber
sf
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As for the metal, the cams of Aliens are 6061 alloy; Master Cams are 7075, which is indeed harder (you can search around for info on hardness of aluminum alloys if you wish). Totem cam doesn't say what theirs are made of.
A rep from Totem said they were using 7075-T6 for their cams here.
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MTucker
Ice climber
Arizona
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Oct 18, 2010 - 11:36pm PT
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Totem Cams are only good for 5 years!!
Right there in the fine print. Estimated lifespan is 5 years.
I got my hands on them in YOSE and grabbed a tag off them.
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Matt M
Trad climber
Alamo City
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Stumbled upon this looking at reviews...
"MTucker" - Totem Cams are only good for 5 years!!
Right there in the fine print. Estimated lifespan is 5 years.
Not sure if you're kidding with the post but it's a bit disingenuous. All EU products are required to have an estimated life span on them. DMM and WC biners have a "lifetime" estimate on them as well.
I bet since there's webbing involved the life span is reduced.
Yep - here's DMM's info sheet for their cams: "14.1. Lifespan: this product will deteriorate over time in the course of normal use and because of this we are required by directive 89/686/EEC to give a lifespan date. It is difficult to be precise but a conservative estimate for this product is that it has a lifespan of 10 years from date of first use (for metal components) and 5 years from date of first use (for textile components). The following factors will further reduce the safe working life of this product (a) Metal components: corrosion, abrasion, burrs, cracks, distortion (including deformed stem), broken or frayed cables, broken filaments of wire (b) Textiles: cut or worn threads, broken stitches, grit penetration, internal and external abrasion and furring, chalk contamination, rope burn and prolonged exposure to ultraviolet light including sunlight. Warning: the safe working life of this product may be as little as one use in extreme circumstances: the following factors which will affect the safe working life must be taken into account: placement and/or loading over tight radii, sharp edges of rock or equipment, general wear from normal use, fall arrest including high impact load, heat contamination (outside of normal climatic conditions), failure to clean, maintain and lubricate as described, exposure to chemicals and corrosive reagents (Diagram 24) and rope friction burn (textile)."
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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I have the blue Totem cam and have used it a bunch in the Gunks. No huge whippers, but it holds short falls in horizontals without, as yet, seriously damaging all those wires---this is perhaps the most obvious concern.
If the wires hold up to horizontal placements, the Totem cam will be an excellent piece for the kind of shallow featured horizontal cracks that are often found in the Gunks. Because of the features, narrow head width often make the difference between getting a placement and not, and the Totem cams are a lot narrower than C4's and compete in the smaller sizes with Aliens.
Another placement that Gunks climbers see a lot of is a pinched-off vertical crack placement that has to be oriented with the "stem" (Totem cams don't really have a stem) perpendicular to the rock rather than pointing in the direction of the load. These placements are known to be highly suspect in general, but the flexibility of the Totem and the absence of any stem to impose leverage would appear to make these cams as reliable as it is possible to be in such placements. (Of course, this is speculation and is not the result of any testing program.)
Another good feature is that the Totem cams seem to me to be more stable and less likely to walk than C4's or Aliens. Part of the reason is that they are the most flexible cam on the market, but there are some more subtle additional reasons for this that are pretty well explained in the video at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lG3VnaGG5qc&feature=player_embedded
Lots of scary leads are being done with small brass nuts and ballnuts. Often these placements are only going to work for a few feet before you better get in something else or otherwise be resigned to soloing mode. It seems to me that the two-cam option for Totem cams will inevitably find its way into the free-climber's arsenal as yet another marginal option that is still better than nothing.
An inevitable drawback of the frame allowing for two-cam placements is that the Totem cam as a whole is bulkier on the rack than any other brand.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2011 - 06:40pm PT
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I'm still loving these things. I just threw one into a placement on the first pitch of Desert Song that was a shallow hole. I can't think of any other cam that would have fit. However, due to the narrow head and the wide expansion range the Totem Cam resulted in a great placement. Totem Cams have stayed on my rack after I finished the review, which to me shows they're amazing.
Josh
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 16, 2011 - 03:42pm PT
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Tried a set of these in the Valley this last week, and THEY ROCK!!! Got to try them to be a believer, thats what it took for me. Awesome cams, the new wave of cams IMO.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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May 23, 2011 - 09:40pm PT
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I made Studly a true believer. We used Totem cams on Leaning Tower and after he struggled with a placement on the 3rd pitch, he got a yellow .85 to stick. I was below willing the piece to stick. Wha-hoo, it did. After that he was placing all the 5 that I put on the rack. We had only one set. I love these things. They have turned out to be my go to piece. On Leaning Tower they where the easiest pieces that I cleaned. The high point of the Totem cams are that they place easily, clean like a dream, they don't walk, and they are awesome in those funky pin scars that I find in the Valley. After the climb Couchmaster looked over the cams and exclaimed these cams look brand new. We hammered those babies. Totem cams ROCK HARD!!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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May 23, 2011 - 11:19pm PT
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gear bump
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Jul 22, 2011 - 03:42pm PT
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Interesting review and comments. Missed this until Tkingsbury pointed it out!
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Jul 22, 2011 - 10:55pm PT
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GEAR BUMP x10. I still love these cams. I have 3 of the .65s and 3 of the .85s (blue and yellow respectively). They place in the oddest places and in pin scars they are the bomb. KA-BBOOMM!
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