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AndyG
climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 19, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
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Can anybody enlighten me about climbing at Eagle Peak? I was looking into it some a few days ago, considering checking it out on Sunday. There is not a lot of info out there on the net that I could find. I was hoping for some topos. But I did find a website called San Diego Rock that pretty much was ripping on the route developers for power drilling during raptor season, etc. On the other hand Allied Climbers of San Diego website has nothing negative to say and Eagle Peak is not included in the official seasonal closures this year. Is Eagle Peak actually controversial or is San Diego Rock associated with everybody's favorite SD bolt chopper?
I decided to climb at El Cajon Mt instead. I would sure like to get some topos for Eagle Peak if they are available. Please email me thru here if this is a sensitive topic.
Thanks.
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Apr 19, 2010 - 01:36pm PT
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Eagle Peak is some of the best sport climbing you will do anywhere. Just search this forum and you will find tons of stuff posted by Warbler. He has done a tremendous amount of work out there. The climbing is excellent and you DONT need a topo. Just get on a route and enjoy. The bolts are close together so just have fun. A topo has been published by ACSD and can be purchased at REI or Vertical Hold climbing gym if you really want one.
Check out this thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1010167&tn=160
My understanding is that here is some bad blood between members of the SD climbing community and that has something to do the SDclimbing website. But I can only speak for the climbing and its great.
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matisse
climber
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Apr 19, 2010 - 01:58pm PT
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If you are the AndyG I think you are, email Craig . He's climbed there a bit. drag him out, I jacked my knee (again) and can't do any approaching for now, so he is questing for partners.
Sue
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Apr 19, 2010 - 02:05pm PT
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That bad blood has led to several routes there at Eagle and El Cajon getting "smashed". Ran into a few of these "kids" and its all about THEM....no one else. What a shame!
Fun times (although a bit hot!) at El Cajon yesterday. Warmed up on 'Leonids' (always a fun route), then headed over to Snakes In The Grass (.10a) and finally Spitfire (.10c)....EXCELLENT route!! (a tadbit soft for its reported rating.
BTW, does anyone know if 'Burrito' (El Cajon Mtn) ever got repair after "a certain person" busted up the hangers on it? Didn't take a look at it while on 'Snakes'.
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AndyG
climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2010 - 02:08pm PT
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Thanks for the info guys.
Sue, yeah it's me. I'll email Craig. Sorry about your knee.
Andy
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Apr 19, 2010 - 02:30pm PT
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No 2nd ascent of the trad lines? I need to get out there....
Buy the pocket guide from ACSD. It's available at the meetings (www.alliedclimbers.org) and at local REI stores. It's got great info on the three major faces in SD (Corte Madera, El Cajon Mtn, and Eagle Peak) and it supports a good cause.
Josh
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Apr 19, 2010 - 04:04pm PT
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Sorry Warbler....the majority of the smashed hangers happened at El Cajon, as you stated. However, talked to an Allied guy in the parking lot yesterday stating that route(s) had been busted up on EP too. Just relaying what I heard.
Hmmmm......the Art Of War??
(sorry, couldn't resist)
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Apr 19, 2010 - 05:17pm PT
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I've been on almost all the routes out at Eagle Peak and have yet to find bent hangers or chopped bolts, as are a common occurrence at El Cajon. For awhile my buddy and I were installing quick links and chains where it was convenient for rapping at EP. A few of these were stolen so we stopped. Other than that Im not aware of any damaged routes. If you talk to your buddy ask him which routes he thinks maybe damaged.
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