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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 31, 2005 - 11:11pm PT
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Anybody know the story on the un necessary boltplaced in the rock grouping on the north side of the approach road to the Phantom Spires Camp area?
Looks like somebody has a new cordless hammer drill. Not only are the bolts unnecessary (bomber anchors can be easily placed) but the "Phantom Bolters" even drilled an useless hole in a bolder at the base of the area just to drill a hole... No purpose!
Also any info on the routes up there would be nice to hear.
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426
Sport climber
Owsley County (yeah it is), KY
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You oughta check out the "Jewell" at the Pie Shop....
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2005 - 10:24pm PT
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I have not seen the bolt you are refering to at the Pie Shop.
The bolts that I am refering to are in no way required. I was ble to place bomber pro all around them and not clip the bolts.
I do not know the rout name. it is a rock grouping that is esily seen on the North side of the dirt road to Phantom Spires. I am certain anbody who has been to Spires has looked up at them and thought about going up to them (they are not listed in the guide books).
I first thought about making the hike back in 1986 but I was too lazy.
Then on Sunday I went up there and found 3 bolts (looke pretty new) placed right next to some cracks hat easily protected... This is a mess, bolts need to be maintained, and this plce is not even climbed much. It was a terrible bushwack to get there. The thorns can shred clothing and packs. The shrubs a the base of the cliff are about 4' deep. The cimbing was ok.
This is an example of someone wnting to leave evidence they were there, and use their new toy... I mean really, it is just a drill that is on every construction site.
Bolts are not tatoos... they do real damage and need to be minimized.
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bryan howell
Big Wall climber
truckee,ca
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horrible analogy.
bolts ARE like tatoos:
They do inflict permanite damage and also need to be maintained.
Lets say. . . Bolts are like women: they need to be replaced every 15 years and require constant care and attention.
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WBraun
climber
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So if the bolt was invented by man then we are a permanent damage. But as we can see if the bolt is used correctly it then becomes nicely integrated into the climb? No?
Thus, where is the permanent damage analogy apply?
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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What is the "jewel" at the pie shop? Those white thorns have really become a treat at the spires the last couple of years, oh well natural selection after a forrest fire. Maybe in 75 years climbers will be able to walk under a connifer canopy again on the short spires approach. At least the phantom bolters didn't destroy any well known lines.
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426
Sport climber
Screamersville, VA
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Mark-Go back by Jewell Rd, (near the satellite bouldering on 50) park near gravel quarry and walk up a gully to a gigantic black boulder...
I dunno, maybe it's been 'cleaned' up. Shoot me a 'TR' if you go back there, I'm curious...
I agree with you, at least they are not bolting up "Hanging Jugs" or sumtin'. This guy ought to see all the core samples around Tahoe (i.e., Leap)...talk about some "bolt" holes...
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2005 - 10:41am PT
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I do not agree with keeping man out of the wilderness. I believe our impact can be be mnaged through consideration... We are smarter than the other animals.
I own a bolt kit and have put them in. I do think a bolt is something you install in the rock as a last resort to a great climb.
I am talking about bolts with in 2 feet of a perfect crack that eats pro easily. I enjoy the challange of placing my own pro. It is a geat dynamic to the sport.
I think this instance really is somebody over zealous with a new toy. Human nature. Problem is he should have drilled a bolt into the foundation of his house for fun instead of a rock.
As for the thorns, this area has NO TRAILS. Making the thorns a real meat grinder.
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426
Sport climber
Screamersville, VA
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Got any evidence that we're smarter? Watch, this thread is about to disprove your assertion....it'll be my fault; we're discussing little holes in a rock, so we're already headed there...
Again, sounds to me like a fine place (no trails, thorny). At least they didn't pop one on "101 Dalmations" eh?
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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