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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 7, 2009 - 05:10pm PT
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I forgot my camera, so didn't get any pictures of my partner in crime. Thanks Le_Bruce for saving the day :)
Starting out on Gripper, all gear and slings pushed out of the way for the chimney:
I climbed through past the traverse in a single pitch, had a lot of gear left on the rack even after using 2 gold camelots in the belay:
Following up P3 somewhere:
And the only real shot of Midterm after that (from the ground), because belayer had to pay attention a little bit:
Sorry no dramas, no major adventures to report, but the climbing was great and if I had it to do over again I'd tape my hands BEFORE getting gobies on the back. It's been a while since I've taped up, but I needed it for these.
Edit: I put a beta comment for Midterm on the routes page for folks who are interested.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Look great
Bet you'd have it to yourself today as well (for iceclimbing)
Peace
Karl
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Nice TR, even without more pictures of Midterm. We, too, had Arch Rock (and specifically Gripper) to ourselves once, but that was on a Sunday in May of 1973.
John
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Remember them well. It seems that Midterm keeps getting longer because of erosion at the base.
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scuffy b
climber
Whuttiz that Monstrosicos Inferno?
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That's great, Scott.
We had Reed's to ourselves that day, as well. T shirt weather in December!
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Kupandamingi
Trad climber
Berkeley
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...the real question is whether Bryce got Mid-term or not. Followed him up it one day a few years back...we both suffered...he swore he'd be back, I've avoided it and arch rock like the plague ever since.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sweet little crag and I had the luck to be there when there were no people AND not all of those classic lines had been climbed.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Midterm was the first crack I ever did in the Valley and I had to hang on the upper part because I was afraid to jut cast off into the flare above. In future years I would do that route dozens of times - an all time favorite. Perhaps the best granite on the planet. Strange, but I never did pitch 2.
JL
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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cool guys! way to get on it....
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Great routes! So nice to see pics of them... makes this 18-degree Oregon weather seem unbearable. Oh wait... it is!
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Great job nut!!!!
Cool enough photos of said event!!!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Nice Scott - too much modesty, though. You sent Gripper 1 and 2 linked, and Midterm*, both onsite. Great day, man.
Greg - I wasn't even close on Midterm. First fall this time came when the fists ran out. How the F to climb that transition? Next five falls came in the chimney, amidst the sobs and the weeping. Beats the Grotto, though.
Gripper was a cakewalk comparatively. No technique, no dice on the Midterm.
*Bonus to Nutjob's Midterm onsite: he fell from above the top of the fingers onto the hourglass handjam where the crack opens, didn't weight the rope, and climbed on.
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| Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic |
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