Trip Report
the weather gods were smiling on us...a TR from the Tetons

by zeta
Wednesday September 8, 2010 3:19am
So, it all started out with an invitation to an August wedding in Bozeman...a bunch of us from Berkeley wanted to go and then decided to tag on an extra week of playing in the Tetons...some drove out, some flew, there were a ridiculous amount of emails, but it all came together...

but first, a pic of the best 'first dance' I've ever seen at a wedding
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Brian & Michelle's awesome dance
Brian & Michelle's awesome dance
Credit: zeta
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the cars are stuffed with gear and people
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Credit: zeta
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and now we're ready to climb! We definitely lucked out with weather, as it was raining when we arrived and raining when we left--but sunny all the days we were on the rock.

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first glimpse of the Tetons...
first glimpse of the Tetons...
Credit: zeta
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Day 1: we did a day a nearby route, Baxter pinnacle, an easy 5.6 route with one awkward/slippery 5.9 move on the last pitch, which I decided could be done by grabbing the draw, attempting an awkward high step, lunging for the 2nd piton. It didn't look pretty but it worked.
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Hiking up to Baxter
Hiking up to Baxter
Credit: zeta
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Chris happy to be climbing again!
Chris happy to be climbing again!
Credit: zeta
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Then, we headed up Cascade canyon...we had this amazing sunset the first night where you could see the shadows of the Tetons as the sun set...and then the very cool full moonrise (thanks to Tuffley for the fantastic pics as my camera is crappy)

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Teton trio shadow
Teton trio shadow
Credit: zeta
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amazing moonrise
amazing moonrise
Credit: zeta
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Next day was climbing the Corkscrew, a 5 pitch 5.8 on Fairshare tower. This was an awesome climb! Pitch 1 and 2 are mellow, pitch 3 is "airy" though it has good protection, pitch 4 has a funky but short 5.8 move, then a funky chimney that we all had different experiences with. I liked it, but Cheryl's shoes came unclipped off her harness and fell while Chris was trailing a small backpack that got stuck. You never know with chimneys...

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Corkscrew on Fairshare tower. The route goes up to the left of the dih...
Corkscrew on Fairshare tower. The route goes up to the left of the dihedral, moves left across the ramp, and then goes around the left corner.
Credit: zeta
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Chris and I on top of Fairshare tower
Chris and I on top of Fairshare tower
Credit: zeta
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Then, we went the next day to climb the Grand. Even though it's such a pain in the ass to wake up early, the gorgeous light is worth it!
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Morning light on Middle Teton
Morning light on Middle Teton
Credit: zeta
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views heading up
views heading up
Credit: zeta
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and the required summit shot
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Chris and Cheryl happy on top
Chris and Cheryl happy on top
Credit: zeta
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Even though we did the Exum route, which is easy (5.5), it still ended up being a longer day than expected. Here is a pic of Chris, who is a math professor, teaching me how to calculate how long it will take for the sun to set by measuring the distance between the horizon and the sun with your fingers.

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how many minutes left of sun?
how many minutes left of sun?
Credit: zeta
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the next day, we hooked up with the rest of our friends and all hiked out, as funky weather came in...but everyone was super psyched to be out, even if they didn't get to climb
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Cleo, PhilB and me plus the rest of the gang...
Cleo, PhilB and me plus the rest of the gang...
Credit: zeta
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  Trip Report Views: 1,825
zeta
About the Author
zeta is a trad climber from Berkeley.

Comments
Jennie

Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
  Sep 8, 2010 - 03:44am PT
Beautiful photos, Zeta !
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Sep 8, 2010 - 06:06am PT
hey there zeta, say, i will give a hearty second, to what jennie said... great pictures..... and the dance, too!...

i LOVE the tetons... thanks for a great share...


god bless...
:)
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Sep 8, 2010 - 08:38am PT
Looks like a "Grand" time had by all.
Fabulous place, that. Thanks for takin' us along.
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Sep 8, 2010 - 09:05am PT
Sweet TR/Thanks!
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Sep 8, 2010 - 09:16am PT
Dude! Great timing on he weather. Liked the dance shot too!
Edge

Trad climber
  Sep 8, 2010 - 09:19am PT
Awesome pics, Zeta! I especially liked the shadow of les trois Tetons.

Thanks for sharing!
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
  Sep 8, 2010 - 09:34am PT
Thanks! Those photos brought back a lot of good memories.
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Sep 8, 2010 - 09:43am PT
Cool !
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Sep 8, 2010 - 10:11am PT

Looks like it was fun!!!!
Nice shots!
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
  Sep 8, 2010 - 10:17am PT
That is a very cool TR!! Thanks!
Zander

climber
  Sep 8, 2010 - 10:50am PT
Nice!!
Zander
Phil_B

Social climber
CHC, en zed
  Sep 8, 2010 - 11:11am PT
Nice shots!

Sorry our time was a day behind yours and we missed out on the good weather window. More the reason to return!
Ezra

Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
  Sep 8, 2010 - 12:37pm PT
Nice Y'all!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Sep 8, 2010 - 01:11pm PT
Great, great, great!
Super happy that it worked out well for everyone.
We need lots of positive upbeat reports, thanks a ton.

DMT, 15 min. per finger.....
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
  Sep 8, 2010 - 01:18pm PT
Sweet TR. Great pics! Looks like a great time. Crazy wedding dance included.
Unfrozen Caveman Lawyer

Trad climber
  Sep 8, 2010 - 01:39pm PT
Awesome TR and great photos. Thanks.
Thorgon

Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
  Sep 8, 2010 - 02:13pm PT
Thanks for sharing, those are stellar shots, especially the "summit of smiles" picture!



Thor
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
  Sep 8, 2010 - 04:12pm PT
on that wedding dance, is it still two points for a take down,
three for a predicament?

thank you, wonderful smiles!

goatboy smellz

climber
Gulf Breeze
  Oct 5, 2010 - 05:29pm PT
Gotta love the Tetons!
cleo

Social climber
wherever you go, there you are
  Oct 5, 2010 - 05:47pm PT
Oh, I missed this the first time!
cleo

Social climber
wherever you go, there you are
  Oct 5, 2010 - 05:49pm PT

The weather gods did NOT smile on us, but at least we got to watch some great storms from the comfort of the car.
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