my good friend aiden-two-left-shoes-mcjackson
and i attempted an onsight of this intimidating
jay smith / rick sumner route at lovers leap
last weekend. the beta is vague,
and the route dirty.

i made it as far as the third belay but
bailed because i was unsure if i was on route.

after a peekaboo at the last forty feet
(no rehearsing just a looky)

i gave it another go today.

the guides give it an x-rating,
and i might bump it down to r
but it would be a poor place
to f*#k up.

thanks to salamanizer for the inspiration
and beta. that kid eats runouts for snack.

anyway here's some gloss,

pitch one, super crunchy and steep 5.9.

the little headwall just before
east wall ledge is a tough little patch,

2nd pitch heads up the east wall dihedral
before exiting left at a belay.

aiden by mistake stocked his kit
with two left shoes.
he boldly made the first
2-left-shoed ascent of this route for certain.

pitch 3 heads up a slab scoop,
tending right following holds up to
the steeper bit.

right above
the large roof that cuts through east wall



50' of unprotected 5.9 right off the belay

on up into shallow dihedrals
with so-so gear beneath
supect flakes.

up through some roofs,
with good pro and decent rock.
good climbing through this section.
eventually you end up
beneath the largest roof on the route.
here, i headed left for about 6'
and then pulled a 5.10 mantle
above a shitty nut.

40' of dirty and continuously
challenging climbing sees you to the summit,
and here's my good mate
aiden, sporting his two left shoes
and a winning smile
thanks aiden,
bitchen day, as usual