Trip Report
my big Friends and Arch rock
Sunday February 26, 2012 8:38pm
the first time was when Werner took me up gripper in the early 80's, I remember getting schooled pretty hard back then. and i'm still getting worked, and loving every minute of it!
top left corner top right corner
Jeff on english breakfast, 2 pitch 5.9, 5.10c
Jeff on english breakfast, 2 pitch 5.9, 5.10c
Credit: mctwisted
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Pep on 2nd pitch of new dimensions 5.10b, 5.10a, 5.10a, 5.11a
Pep on 2nd pitch of new dimensions 5.10b, 5.10a, 5.10a, 5.11a
Credit: mctwisted
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top left corner top right corner
David on one of his favorites, blotto 5.10c
David on one of his favorites, blotto 5.10c
Credit: mctwisted
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Alexey, right at home, on english breakfast
Alexey, right at home, on english breakfast
Credit: mctwisted
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Tom on pitch 2 of entrance exam 5.9++
Tom on pitch 2 of entrance exam 5.9++
Credit: mctwisted
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top left corner top right corner
sue cruising new dimensions 5.11a
sue cruising new dimensions 5.11a
Credit: mctwisted
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Pep onsight of t.k.o. 5.11c
Pep onsight of t.k.o. 5.11c
Credit: mctwisted
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David and Tom on blotto 5.10c, after just doing the chimney to the lef...
David and Tom on blotto 5.10c, after just doing the chimney to the left, entrance exam 5.9






David and Tom on blotto 5.10c


Credit: mctwisted
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Tom and Sue on the 5.9 glory pitch of gripper  (5.10b,5.9, 5.9)
Tom and Sue on the 5.9 glory pitch of gripper (5.10b,5.9, 5.9)
Credit: mctwisted
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David onsight anticipation 5.11b
David onsight anticipation 5.11b
Credit: mctwisted
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Jeff on midterm 5.10b, fingers to chimney pitch
Jeff on midterm 5.10b, fingers to chimney pitch
Credit: mctwisted
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top left corner top right corner
Eliza cruising t.k.o. 5.11+
Eliza cruising t.k.o. 5.11+
Credit: mctwisted
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David Wilson in entrance exam
David Wilson in entrance exam
Credit: mctwisted
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Pep on new dimensions pitch 2 of 4 (5.10b,5.10a,5.10a,5.11a)
Pep on new dimensions pitch 2 of 4 (5.10b,5.10a,5.10a,5.11a)
Credit: mctwisted
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whole lotta crack
whole lotta crack
Credit: mctwisted
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our falcon friends
our falcon friends
Credit: mctwisted
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anybody else have any pics of arch? leanie meanie?

  Trip Report Views: 11,126
mctwisted
About the Author
mctwisted is a climber from el portal.

Comments
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Feb 26, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
Nice! Always was my favorite Valley crag.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Feb 26, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
Great!
I especially dig that pulled back shot of New Dimensions.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Feb 26, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
McExcellent!
Thanks!
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Feb 26, 2012 - 09:31pm PT
Dan - this is a great, great photo essay! Thanks.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Feb 26, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
Nice photo share Twisty, full on stoker.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Feb 26, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
outstanding Dan!
splitter

Trad climber
Somewhere South Of Heaven
  Feb 26, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
Beautiful!!
David Wilson

climber
CA
  Feb 26, 2012 - 10:50pm PT
Nice one Dan! I'll add a few pics tomorrow.
wee man

Trad climber
truckee ca
  Feb 26, 2012 - 11:17pm PT
thanks for the pics love the crag,entrance exam is a beast so are the rest of em
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
  Feb 26, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
Thanks Dan, loved it!
WBraun

climber
  Feb 26, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
Dan

There's that old saying;

"There's just no place like home ..... :-)"
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Feb 27, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
Man those look like some great routes. You took some really great pictures.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Feb 26, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
Awesome. Those routes scare me. Thanks for confirming how desperate they would be if I ever got up inside one of them. Great shots of some iconic climbs!
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Feb 26, 2012 - 11:27pm PT
BUMP!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
  Feb 27, 2012 - 12:24am PT
Arch Rock has always been a rather character building place.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Feb 27, 2012 - 12:30am PT
best little thread and photos ever.
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
  Feb 27, 2012 - 12:50am PT
sweet!
JOEY.F

Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
  Feb 27, 2012 - 12:56am PT
Thanks!
Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
  Feb 27, 2012 - 09:25am PT
I haven't been to Arch Rock since the early 1990's (living on the east coast doesn't help). I remember everytime going up there I'd (1) get my ass kicked and (2) never had enough water.
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
  Feb 27, 2012 - 09:50am PT
I remember doing New Dimensions w/ Troy Johnson
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
  Feb 27, 2012 - 11:33am PT
+1!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Feb 27, 2012 - 11:48am PT
Very Cool Dan!

Arch regulars making it look all soooooooo easy!

Didn't David do a TR on that .10c Blotto to the right of EE?

Thanks for the Great pics.
David Wilson

climber
CA
  Feb 27, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
here are a few more pics. sure sorry to see this crag close down

mucci, yes i did a tr on axis aka blotto a few months ago





gstock

climber
Yosemite Valley
  Feb 27, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
Just a quick note here on behalf of Jesse and my wife Sarah, the park ornithologist (and also a climber):

The temporary closure of Arch Rock, which begins on March 1, is to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Peregrines have been nesting at Arch Rock for the past several years, and have selected different ledges to nest on each year. The closure this year covers more routes than previous years to allow the peregrines to choose whichever site they prefer. Biologists will closely monitor Arch Rock throughout the late winter and spring, and once the falcons choose a nesting site, routes that are not proximal to that site will most likely be reopened. All routes at Arch Rock and elsewhere will open on August 1 for the remainder of the year.

Greg
neversummer

climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
  Feb 27, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
Awesome
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Feb 27, 2012 - 12:26pm PT
Thanks David,

such a great look at those routes.

These TR's are the lower caynon at it's best.

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Feb 27, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
Nice shots of the classics!

That crag would be a destination area all on it's own!
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Feb 27, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
A wonderful photo essay.

The past few years, the closure has been modified (reduced) on May 1.
Don't despair!!
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Feb 27, 2012 - 02:36pm PT
Really nice picture angles to give good route overviews. Thanks! And blotto wasn't on my radar, now added to the list!

Someone must have great pics taken by leader looking down on follower coming across the traverse of Gripper (right after the roof). I forgot my camera that day, really wished I had it.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Feb 27, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
freakin' rad pictures, love those new dimension shots, folks in the belly of an OW monster!

le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Feb 27, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
Appreciated the photos, really nice.
susu

climber
East Bay, CA
  Feb 27, 2012 - 05:32pm PT
Such a photogenic cliff! Love the photos!
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
  Feb 27, 2012 - 05:38pm PT
so who volunteers to help me lose my Arch Rock virginity?
I'm game, just need someone who can lead the crux pitches and put up with my weeping.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
  Feb 27, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
In the early 80's I heard a story about the real Arch rock(just above the road). Maybe someone can confirm it.
Apparently a team of 3 guys pulled a stunt for the tourists.
One guy dangling in space right over the road, hanging onto 1 sleeve of a jacket.
Guy #2 is on top holding the other sleeve
Guy#3 hiding in the bushes belaying guy#1 with a rope that passes through the jacket to hidden swami that #1 has around his waist.
anyone fess up?
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
  Feb 27, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
Wonderful photo series. I was really looking forward to finally trying out some of the climbs at Arch Rock in March/April until I heard about the closure :-( The photos have me excited for the Fall!
Zander

climber
  Feb 27, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
Sweet thread. I've never been to Arch Rock. Obviously need to get up there.
Thanks all.
Zander
tarek

climber
berkeley
  Feb 27, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
Nice photos, thanks!

Didn't make it up there this season.
I like making way for the birds though, even if that only means that some data gets gathered without interference.

AP

Trad climber
Calgary
  Feb 27, 2012 - 11:01pm PT
So Kevin and I were on our first Valley trip in 1980 and he suggests Midterm. We were 2 Rockies boys who didn't know the first thing about jamming.
So Kevin pulls his rope out at the base. It is all fuzzy and ratty looking. He says "I loaned it to Bugs McKeith last year and ran off to Yosemite and used it as a haul rope on 5 walls"
Well we dispatched the route, or a fairer description might be that it dispatched us. We were cursing, thrashing, and resting on pro at a few points. It turns out Yamnuska is NOT suitable training for Arch Rock.
We get back to the car, throw his rope on the roof, have a beer, then drive off without grabbing the rope.
We pulled into the Camp 4 lot and guys are waving at us. We think maybe these Valley types are friendly.
Upon parking we realized that one strand of the rope had been caught in the car door and we had dragged it all the way from Arch Rock.
It consisted of 40 feet of straight line and a big ball.
Kevin decided it was time to get a new cord.
Dave Davis

Social climber
Seattle, WA
  Feb 27, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
Great pics! Love Arch Rock.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Mar 1, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
Thanks Dan! I'm missing it all.

Love the shot of Pep pushing the New D apart.
msiddens

Trad climber
  Mar 1, 2012 - 02:03pm PT
LOVE IT, thanks for sharing.
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
  Mar 5, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
Thanks for the pics!

Wes
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Author's Reply  Oct 16, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
here's a few from new dimensions (10-16-12)
fosburg

climber
  Oct 16, 2012 - 09:54pm PT
Good stuff Dan, thanks!
gonzo chemist

climber
the east coast, for now.
  Oct 16, 2012 - 09:54pm PT
^^^^ Rockin' the Evolv Astroman....


donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Oct 16, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
My favorite crag back in the 70's. Two of my most memorable FA's Leanie Meanie and Anticipation, and two of my best solos, Midterm and Gripper. Most of them with Chappie.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Oct 16, 2012 - 10:13pm PT
Climbing Gripper with Eva in February 2008
p1

traverse to final crack

final hand crack
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Oct 16, 2012 - 10:32pm PT
hey there say, mctwisted....

very very nice share... can't see all the pics, :(
dial up, but i would comment, otherwise..

though not as to cimbing technically etc... since i don't
climb...

very nice report and i like the intro, too...
thanks again...

and MORE pics, later, too, oh my...
will get back, when i have more time...
:)
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Oct 16, 2012 - 10:39pm PT

WOW!!!!
Thanks for sharing!!!!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Oct 16, 2012 - 10:51pm PT
Best thread ever for `nearing '60 year old` California climbers.

Thanks
tom Carter

Social climber
  Oct 16, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
Thanks very much!!!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Oct 16, 2012 - 11:12pm PT
The second picture in this thread of the pod on New D. is spectacular.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Oct 16, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
More great photos! I guess some places are just too classic to take a bad picture. I still miss Arch Rock. Too bad I showed up during the September heat wave this year.

Dan, I'm surprised you don't just run the middle pitches of New D together.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Oct 16, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
rad TR that sprouted a killer thread!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Oct 17, 2012 - 08:53am PT
Bitchen photos!


bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
  Oct 17, 2012 - 10:04am PT
it's wierd how time moves on. i've done all those routes a gazillion times, but i barely recognized them in the photos. i guess 25 years is longer then you think.
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
  Oct 17, 2012 - 11:27am PT
Great pics guys, thanks for the inspiration. Looks like an awesome spot to climb and enjoy nature.
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
  Oct 17, 2012 - 12:28pm PT
^^^ exactly what i was thinking bvb. nice reset of the psych though. thanks dan,
once in a while a photo really can communicate a portion of the stone's statement.

each passage is so fleeting, even with all the gazing. to see whole new generations
grappling with enduring problems and the satisfying solutions keep coming up
the so similiar, it kind of offsets the transient aspect of experience.

maybe i'm having an "in lieu of being a grandpa" moment
matty

Trad climber
Sad the forum is gone =(
  Oct 17, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
Great shots for sure by everyone. mctwisted needs some work on the colors, maybe a camera setting, something while editing or a monitor thats out of whack but somethings up with the color in your shots. I've seen it with several different monitors/devices so its not something on my end. It is especially noticeable on skintone. I really like the shots otherwise, just thought I point out a little something that caught my eye. Cheers-

<Matt
David Wilson

climber
CA
  Oct 19, 2012 - 10:09am PT
Keep adding pics Dan - great to see this thread come up again !
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
  Oct 22, 2012 - 03:45pm PT
Nice! Thanks for this thread.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Oct 22, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
Almost done grovelling on the thin start to Midterm (the crux for me):

Glory crack on last pitch of Gripper gobbling up my arms:
Gagner

climber
Boulder
  Oct 22, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
Sweeeet Dan!!

I love Arch Rock, but frankly haven't climbed there in years. BITD, in the late 70's early 80's it was part of my school of hard crack training area. Schneider, Harlin, Bellizzi, Barbella and I would get schooled and always come away with huge gobies. That and the Cookie were the sh#t.

Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz
  Oct 23, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
nice Dan....missed this when it first appeared, always walk away from Arch feeling like a domestic violence victim, smacked and beaten...
climbski2

Mountain climber
The Ocean
  Oct 23, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
Missed this one first time around. Excellent pics and additions.

I'm afraid if I ever entered some of those cracks I would never come out.

Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
  Oct 23, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
This is just not fair! I miss Arch SO MUCH!!! That has to be one of the finest crags in the world. Every day at Arch is a great day!
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  Oct 24, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
one can see why the crowds are somewhere else,,hurts so good ,,
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jan 22, 2013 - 03:08pm PT
Last moves on the Gripper:

Midterm start showing just how beautiful the Arch Rock granite really is:

Had a great, quiet day with the mini at Arch yesterday.

Is someone putting up a new bolted route near English Breakfast?
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jan 22, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
Thanks for the great photos. Somehow, I concentrated on climbing too much to have taken good (or any) pictures when I'm there.

John
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Author's Reply  Oct 31, 2013 - 12:59am PT
met some great people today, heres a few shots
enjoimx

Trad climber
Yosemite
  Oct 31, 2013 - 01:05am PT
Met you up there today. We were on New Dimensions. Thanks for all you do in Yosemite!! Arch Rock is amazing
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Oct 31, 2013 - 06:55am PT
Yeow!
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Oct 31, 2013 - 09:46am PT
Nice Pics. TFPU!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Oct 31, 2013 - 11:50am PT
Aaarrrrrggghhhh! yer killin me.

R
watching the flakes sift down
L

climber
Just livin' the dream
  Oct 31, 2013 - 11:58am PT
Incredible photos, Dan! Thanks for bumping this thread with even more great pix. Missed it first time around.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Oct 31, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
Great thread. If I ever get to California again. That looks like great crag.
fluffy

Trad climber
Colorado
  Oct 31, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
great thread y'all what a gorgeous hunk of stone
RyanD

climber
  Oct 31, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
Wow, this crag looks stacked! Very cool TR/thread.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Oct 31, 2013 - 01:08pm PT
Dan- Outstanding Photo Survey of the Best Crag in the Valley Hands Down and Thumbs Up!

Thanks for taking the time to put it together. I haven't had a chance to go digging into my own slide boxes for a long time but this is really inspiring me to grab a shovel!
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
  Oct 31, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
So does anyone do Quickie Quizzes any more? Those were always fun after topping out at Arch.
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
  Oct 31, 2013 - 02:24pm PT
I could not believe how polished the start of Midterm was the last time I was there.

It was like glass!
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Author's Reply  Oct 31, 2013 - 05:40pm PT
Bruce, yes, arch closes for the falcons every year. and yes the cliff is great all winter!
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Oct 31, 2013 - 11:51pm PT
Wow, this TR and thread has the best action photos ever.
I got a little wound up and puckered just lookin.
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Author's Reply  Nov 1, 2013 - 12:20am PT
yeh Kev, anticipation is my favorite at arch as well. pumpy, technical, lots of good stemming, with a finger crack crux in a corner up high when your already pumped. and a fair bit more challenging to lead than new d as you have to work a bit harder to get the gear in
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Author's Reply  Nov 1, 2013 - 01:06am PT
that gripper's a proud lead, i had to climb a fair bit at arch the last few seasons, before i was ready to start leading that again. feels good to have the wide mojo back!


fond memories of werner dragging me up that route, i climbed so slow he said i climbed like a turtle. but i was one of the only guys around to belay,not many around in winter back then.

and i think he could tell i really wanted to learn
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Author's Reply  Nov 1, 2013 - 01:16am PT
come on down, ill set a brother up!
Mimi

climber
  Nov 3, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
That crag would be a destination area all on it's own!

You got that right, Jaybro. What a crag! One of the finest selection of quality stout routes anywhere.

Thanks for the great photos.
A5scott

Trad climber
NE Philly, PA
  Nov 3, 2013 - 09:55pm PT
Another great thread and TR... thanks Dan!

scott
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
  Nov 4, 2013 - 10:29am PT
Bejeebus,

That all looks soooo desperate, and the buggers in the photos look so composed.

I'd rather have six rounds with Mike Tyson - I'd probably come out in better shape!

The last time I went into a modestly moderate off width/flare I felt like a baby Blue Whale in the birth canal.....funny to watch no doubt, but not to experience.

Steve



mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Nov 4, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
Both of my shoes exploded on midterm.
2 l l

Sport climber
Rancho Verga, CA
  Mar 13, 2014 - 02:31am PT
bump
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Mar 13, 2014 - 07:59am PT
Hey, I was gonna bump, too!

Kismet.
wilbeer

Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
  Mar 13, 2014 - 08:59am PT
Fantastic TR.
okie

Trad climber
  Mar 13, 2014 - 04:49pm PT
Love the Gripper, love the Leanie Meanie Donini.
Hate the Midterm, in a good way...
New D, EBC, that chimney exam...I liked those photos of folks negotiating the flake in various ways.
Does anyone do Supplication? That's quality. How about the fisting to the right of it, Application?
Never done Anticipation, need to.
That face move on Blotto is a puzzlement. WTF? You mean I have to FACE climb?
How many of us have had Werner solo over us at this crag? Think he left a footprint on my head.
When is the closure for the 2014 season?
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  Mar 16, 2014 - 07:37pm PT
wow ,we,wow,hell yes,,the ratings should go down ,with out all that dirt and liken shissth,,I did have an almost wernerist moment when my partner [short ,cute,german [lidyia???]stopped half way up to let the golden boy pass,,Anticipation ?? 11c,,cant remember,,any way,,nice flashbacks,grascias,,
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
  Mar 16, 2014 - 07:41pm PT
If the poison Oak doesn't make you feel humble just about every climb there will.
Dan McDevitt

Social climber
tioga cliff or fifi buttress
  May 7, 2015 - 10:36pm PT
Dan McDevitt

Social climber
tioga cliff or fifi buttress
  May 7, 2015 - 10:49pm PT
thanks to those responsible for doing a great job watching the falcons and reopening arch rock! fyi- if doing new demensions u can now do 2 33m raps from the top of the route to the ground (keep an eye out on the way up the route as the 2nd rap is a station over on klemens escape, which is about 20' to the right of the plumb line of new d.
Dan McDevitt

Social climber
tioga cliff or fifi buttress
  May 7, 2015 - 10:57pm PT
Tork

climber
Yosemite
  May 8, 2015 - 08:27am PT
Nice Dan! Back at Arch.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  May 8, 2015 - 10:56am PT
That's good news about the lifting. Hoping MCR and the Rostrum are next.
Byran

climber
Half Dome Village
  May 8, 2015 - 11:40am PT
Middle Cathedral has been open since April 22nd

http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm

The only high-traffic areas which are still closed now are the Rostrum and Lost Arrow (plus Medlicott up in Tuolumne).
c wilmot

climber
  May 8, 2015 - 12:25pm PT
cool stuff-I lived at the housing at Arch Rock for two NPS trail seasons.
Its a little late now- but if you can get on Trails in Yos (not recommended) you can request to live in the housing next to the bathrooms. its a pretty sweet spot to live

Oh- and anywhere off the road is LOADED with poison oak- assume its there even if the leaves are not. Cant tell you how many climbers I saw walk right through it after a day on the rock
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
  May 8, 2015 - 02:00pm PT
Good to see you Dan back to Arch with stocked partner!
I met big rattle snake there on the upper part of the trail a week ago, but she rattle to me than she is not against the climbers unless they practice aid on New D.
Dan McDevitt

Social climber
tioga cliff or fifi buttress
  May 8, 2015 - 02:35pm PT
thanks for the warning about the rattler Alexey, will spread the word.
didnt fall off new d but sure felt sore for a few days after :)
c u guys up there!
Dan McDevitt

Social climber
tioga cliff or fifi buttress
  May 8, 2015 - 02:48pm PT
Dan McDevitt

Social climber
tioga cliff or fifi buttress
  May 8, 2015 - 02:50pm PT
Dan McDevitt

Social climber
tioga cliff or fifi buttress
  May 8, 2015 - 02:54pm PT
Dan McDevitt

Social climber
tioga cliff or fifi buttress
  May 8, 2015 - 03:01pm PT
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
  May 8, 2015 - 03:03pm PT
Old bay tree growing back in the base of Gripper/LeanieMeanie after been vandalize at Dog Rock Fire last fall.

Please protect it !
Dan McDevitt

Social climber
tioga cliff or fifi buttress
  May 8, 2015 - 03:04pm PT
Dan McDevitt

Social climber
tioga cliff or fifi buttress
  May 8, 2015 - 03:07pm PT
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
  May 8, 2015 - 03:07pm PT
This. Is. It.

Thanks to all who shared!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  May 8, 2015 - 04:49pm PT
$$$ - the position at these moves is so wild. So intimidating to look up at that section from the belay the first time you climb it. Pic nails it.


Did this same "crossed jams" move on my first go, nearly hosed myself because I couldn't see to figure out what to do with my feet.


Damn is New Dimensions a stellar climb. Still haven't gotten the last pitch clean. There is one body length in there at about the .75 size that throws me every time.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
  May 8, 2015 - 04:59pm PT
Keep the pictures and comments coming. I'm loving it!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  May 8, 2015 - 09:08pm PT
Y'all are gonna make me cry.


RD
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  May 11, 2015 - 10:45am PT



Long live Arch
Bruce Morris

Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
  May 11, 2015 - 02:44pm PT
Used those Big Friends on GRE yet, Dan? Looks like the second ascent of a life-time. Elliott really loved the Wide!
Dan McDevitt

Social climber
tioga cliff or fifi buttress
  May 11, 2015 - 07:32pm PT
nice shots le bruce
bruce morris-hav'nt been brave enough to do GRE. looks way burly. hey what does gre mean or stand for?
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  May 11, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
Graduate Record Exam.

lebruce, I like to belay there too cuz you get a nice ledge and you can do it in 2 pitches. not sure anyone else did that.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
  May 15, 2015 - 11:11am PT
Dan sent to me long time ago two beautiful photos of GRE and The Bin
Bruce Morris

Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
  May 15, 2015 - 01:29pm PT
Elliott Robinson did say that as horrendous as GRE looks standing underneath it, the crux itself has overhead pro. So you can suffer safely? I like that understated rating, "5.11". That covers a wide range of territory as far as OW is concerned!

What about that horrible looking under-cling thing to the left? Why doesn't anyone get on that?
overwatch

climber
Arizona
  Jun 15, 2016 - 04:33pm PT
another great one with some sack shrinking photos
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
  Jun 15, 2016 - 06:04pm PT
excellent photo!
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