Trip Report
my big Friends and Arch rock
Sunday February 26, 2012 8:38pm
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the first time was when Werner took me up gripper in the early 80's, I remember getting schooled pretty hard back then. and i'm still getting worked, and loving every minute of it!
anybody else have any pics of arch? leanie meanie?
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Trip Report Views: 11,126 |
mctwisted
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About the Author mctwisted is a climber from el portal. |
Comments
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 26, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
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Nice! Always was my favorite Valley crag.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 26, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
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Great!
I especially dig that pulled back shot of New Dimensions.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Feb 26, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
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McExcellent!
Thanks!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Feb 26, 2012 - 09:31pm PT
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Dan - this is a great, great photo essay! Thanks.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Feb 26, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
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Nice photo share Twisty, full on stoker.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Feb 26, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
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outstanding Dan!
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splitter
Trad climber
Somewhere South Of Heaven
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Feb 26, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
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Beautiful!!
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Feb 26, 2012 - 10:50pm PT
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Nice one Dan! I'll add a few pics tomorrow.
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wee man
Trad climber
truckee ca
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Feb 26, 2012 - 11:17pm PT
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thanks for the pics love the crag,entrance exam is a beast so are the rest of em
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Feb 26, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
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Thanks Dan, loved it!
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 26, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
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Dan
There's that old saying;
"There's just no place like home ..... :-)"
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Feb 27, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
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Man those look like some great routes. You took some really great pictures.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Feb 26, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
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Awesome. Those routes scare me. Thanks for confirming how desperate they would be if I ever got up inside one of them. Great shots of some iconic climbs!
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Feb 26, 2012 - 11:27pm PT
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BUMP!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Feb 27, 2012 - 12:24am PT
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Arch Rock has always been a rather character building place.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 27, 2012 - 12:30am PT
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best little thread and photos ever.
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em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
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Feb 27, 2012 - 12:50am PT
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sweet!
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Feb 27, 2012 - 12:56am PT
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Thanks!
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Feb 27, 2012 - 09:25am PT
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I haven't been to Arch Rock since the early 1990's (living on the east coast doesn't help). I remember everytime going up there I'd (1) get my ass kicked and (2) never had enough water.
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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Feb 27, 2012 - 09:50am PT
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I remember doing New Dimensions w/ Troy Johnson
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Feb 27, 2012 - 11:33am PT
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+1!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Feb 27, 2012 - 11:48am PT
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Very Cool Dan!
Arch regulars making it look all soooooooo easy!
Didn't David do a TR on that .10c Blotto to the right of EE?
Thanks for the Great pics.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Feb 27, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
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here are a few more pics. sure sorry to see this crag close down
mucci, yes i did a tr on axis aka blotto a few months ago
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gstock
climber
Yosemite Valley
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Feb 27, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
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Just a quick note here on behalf of Jesse and my wife Sarah, the park ornithologist (and also a climber):
The temporary closure of Arch Rock, which begins on March 1, is to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Peregrines have been nesting at Arch Rock for the past several years, and have selected different ledges to nest on each year. The closure this year covers more routes than previous years to allow the peregrines to choose whichever site they prefer. Biologists will closely monitor Arch Rock throughout the late winter and spring, and once the falcons choose a nesting site, routes that are not proximal to that site will most likely be reopened. All routes at Arch Rock and elsewhere will open on August 1 for the remainder of the year.
Greg
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neversummer
climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Feb 27, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
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Awesome
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Feb 27, 2012 - 12:26pm PT
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Thanks David,
such a great look at those routes.
These TR's are the lower caynon at it's best.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 27, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
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Nice shots of the classics!
That crag would be a destination area all on it's own!
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Feb 27, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
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A wonderful photo essay.
The past few years, the closure has been modified (reduced) on May 1.
Don't despair!!
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Feb 27, 2012 - 02:36pm PT
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Really nice picture angles to give good route overviews. Thanks! And blotto wasn't on my radar, now added to the list!
Someone must have great pics taken by leader looking down on follower coming across the traverse of Gripper (right after the roof). I forgot my camera that day, really wished I had it.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Feb 27, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
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freakin' rad pictures, love those new dimension shots, folks in the belly of an OW monster!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Feb 27, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
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Appreciated the photos, really nice.
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susu
climber
East Bay, CA
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Feb 27, 2012 - 05:32pm PT
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Such a photogenic cliff! Love the photos!
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Feb 27, 2012 - 05:38pm PT
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so who volunteers to help me lose my Arch Rock virginity?
I'm game, just need someone who can lead the crux pitches and put up with my weeping.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Feb 27, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
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In the early 80's I heard a story about the real Arch rock(just above the road). Maybe someone can confirm it.
Apparently a team of 3 guys pulled a stunt for the tourists.
One guy dangling in space right over the road, hanging onto 1 sleeve of a jacket.
Guy #2 is on top holding the other sleeve
Guy#3 hiding in the bushes belaying guy#1 with a rope that passes through the jacket to hidden swami that #1 has around his waist.
anyone fess up?
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Feb 27, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
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Wonderful photo series. I was really looking forward to finally trying out some of the climbs at Arch Rock in March/April until I heard about the closure :-( The photos have me excited for the Fall!
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Zander
climber
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Feb 27, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
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Sweet thread. I've never been to Arch Rock. Obviously need to get up there.
Thanks all.
Zander
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Feb 27, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
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Nice photos, thanks!
Didn't make it up there this season.
I like making way for the birds though, even if that only means that some data gets gathered without interference.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Feb 27, 2012 - 11:01pm PT
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So Kevin and I were on our first Valley trip in 1980 and he suggests Midterm. We were 2 Rockies boys who didn't know the first thing about jamming.
So Kevin pulls his rope out at the base. It is all fuzzy and ratty looking. He says "I loaned it to Bugs McKeith last year and ran off to Yosemite and used it as a haul rope on 5 walls"
Well we dispatched the route, or a fairer description might be that it dispatched us. We were cursing, thrashing, and resting on pro at a few points. It turns out Yamnuska is NOT suitable training for Arch Rock.
We get back to the car, throw his rope on the roof, have a beer, then drive off without grabbing the rope.
We pulled into the Camp 4 lot and guys are waving at us. We think maybe these Valley types are friendly.
Upon parking we realized that one strand of the rope had been caught in the car door and we had dragged it all the way from Arch Rock.
It consisted of 40 feet of straight line and a big ball.
Kevin decided it was time to get a new cord.
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Dave Davis
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 27, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
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Great pics! Love Arch Rock.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Thanks Dan! I'm missing it all.
Love the shot of Pep pushing the New D apart.
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msiddens
Trad climber
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LOVE IT, thanks for sharing.
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Thanks for the pics!
Wes
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Author's Reply
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Oct 16, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
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here's a few from new dimensions (10-16-12)
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fosburg
climber
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Oct 16, 2012 - 09:54pm PT
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Good stuff Dan, thanks!
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gonzo chemist
climber
the east coast, for now.
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Oct 16, 2012 - 09:54pm PT
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^^^^ Rockin' the Evolv Astroman....
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 16, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
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My favorite crag back in the 70's. Two of my most memorable FA's Leanie Meanie and Anticipation, and two of my best solos, Midterm and Gripper. Most of them with Chappie.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 16, 2012 - 10:13pm PT
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Climbing Gripper with Eva in February 2008
p1
traverse to final crack
final hand crack
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Oct 16, 2012 - 10:32pm PT
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hey there say, mctwisted....
very very nice share... can't see all the pics, :(
dial up, but i would comment, otherwise..
though not as to cimbing technically etc... since i don't
climb...
very nice report and i like the intro, too...
thanks again...
and MORE pics, later, too, oh my...
will get back, when i have more time...
:)
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Oct 16, 2012 - 10:39pm PT
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WOW!!!!
Thanks for sharing!!!!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 16, 2012 - 10:51pm PT
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Best thread ever for `nearing '60 year old` California climbers.
Thanks
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tom Carter
Social climber
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Oct 16, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
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Thanks very much!!!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 16, 2012 - 11:12pm PT
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The second picture in this thread of the pod on New D. is spectacular.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Oct 16, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
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More great photos! I guess some places are just too classic to take a bad picture. I still miss Arch Rock. Too bad I showed up during the September heat wave this year.
Dan, I'm surprised you don't just run the middle pitches of New D together.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Oct 16, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
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rad TR that sprouted a killer thread!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 17, 2012 - 08:53am PT
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Bitchen photos!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Oct 17, 2012 - 10:04am PT
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it's wierd how time moves on. i've done all those routes a gazillion times, but i barely recognized them in the photos. i guess 25 years is longer then you think.
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Oct 17, 2012 - 11:27am PT
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Great pics guys, thanks for the inspiration. Looks like an awesome spot to climb and enjoy nature.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Oct 17, 2012 - 12:28pm PT
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^^^ exactly what i was thinking bvb. nice reset of the psych though. thanks dan,
once in a while a photo really can communicate a portion of the stone's statement.
each passage is so fleeting, even with all the gazing. to see whole new generations
grappling with enduring problems and the satisfying solutions keep coming up
the so similiar, it kind of offsets the transient aspect of experience.
maybe i'm having an "in lieu of being a grandpa" moment
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matty
Trad climber
Sad the forum is gone =(
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Oct 17, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
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Great shots for sure by everyone. mctwisted needs some work on the colors, maybe a camera setting, something while editing or a monitor thats out of whack but somethings up with the color in your shots. I've seen it with several different monitors/devices so its not something on my end. It is especially noticeable on skintone. I really like the shots otherwise, just thought I point out a little something that caught my eye. Cheers-
<Matt
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Oct 19, 2012 - 10:09am PT
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Keep adding pics Dan - great to see this thread come up again !
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Oct 22, 2012 - 03:45pm PT
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Nice! Thanks for this thread.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Oct 22, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
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Almost done grovelling on the thin start to Midterm (the crux for me):
Glory crack on last pitch of Gripper gobbling up my arms:
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Oct 22, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
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Sweeeet Dan!!
I love Arch Rock, but frankly haven't climbed there in years. BITD, in the late 70's early 80's it was part of my school of hard crack training area. Schneider, Harlin, Bellizzi, Barbella and I would get schooled and always come away with huge gobies. That and the Cookie were the sh#t.
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz
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Oct 23, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
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nice Dan....missed this when it first appeared, always walk away from Arch feeling like a domestic violence victim, smacked and beaten...
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climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
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Oct 23, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
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Missed this one first time around. Excellent pics and additions.
I'm afraid if I ever entered some of those cracks I would never come out.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Oct 23, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
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This is just not fair! I miss Arch SO MUCH!!! That has to be one of the finest crags in the world. Every day at Arch is a great day!
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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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Oct 24, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
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one can see why the crowds are somewhere else,,hurts so good ,,
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jan 22, 2013 - 03:08pm PT
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Last moves on the Gripper:
Midterm start showing just how beautiful the Arch Rock granite really is:
Had a great, quiet day with the mini at Arch yesterday.
Is someone putting up a new bolted route near English Breakfast?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jan 22, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
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Thanks for the great photos. Somehow, I concentrated on climbing too much to have taken good (or any) pictures when I'm there.
John
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Author's Reply
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Oct 31, 2013 - 12:59am PT
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met some great people today, heres a few shots
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Oct 31, 2013 - 01:05am PT
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Met you up there today. We were on New Dimensions. Thanks for all you do in Yosemite!! Arch Rock is amazing
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Oct 31, 2013 - 06:55am PT
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Yeow!
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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Oct 31, 2013 - 09:46am PT
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Nice Pics. TFPU!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Oct 31, 2013 - 11:50am PT
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Aaarrrrrggghhhh! yer killin me.
R
watching the flakes sift down
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L
climber
Just livin' the dream
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Oct 31, 2013 - 11:58am PT
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Incredible photos, Dan! Thanks for bumping this thread with even more great pix. Missed it first time around.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 31, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
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Great thread. If I ever get to California again. That looks like great crag.
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fluffy
Trad climber
Colorado
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Oct 31, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
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great thread y'all what a gorgeous hunk of stone
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RyanD
climber
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Oct 31, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
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Wow, this crag looks stacked! Very cool TR/thread.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 31, 2013 - 01:08pm PT
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Dan- Outstanding Photo Survey of the Best Crag in the Valley Hands Down and Thumbs Up!
Thanks for taking the time to put it together. I haven't had a chance to go digging into my own slide boxes for a long time but this is really inspiring me to grab a shovel!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Oct 31, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
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So does anyone do Quickie Quizzes any more? Those were always fun after topping out at Arch.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Oct 31, 2013 - 02:24pm PT
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I could not believe how polished the start of Midterm was the last time I was there.
It was like glass!
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Author's Reply
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Oct 31, 2013 - 05:40pm PT
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Bruce, yes, arch closes for the falcons every year. and yes the cliff is great all winter!
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Oct 31, 2013 - 11:51pm PT
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Wow, this TR and thread has the best action photos ever.
I got a little wound up and puckered just lookin.
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Author's Reply
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Nov 1, 2013 - 12:20am PT
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yeh Kev, anticipation is my favorite at arch as well. pumpy, technical, lots of good stemming, with a finger crack crux in a corner up high when your already pumped. and a fair bit more challenging to lead than new d as you have to work a bit harder to get the gear in
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Author's Reply
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Nov 1, 2013 - 01:06am PT
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that gripper's a proud lead, i had to climb a fair bit at arch the last few seasons, before i was ready to start leading that again. feels good to have the wide mojo back!
fond memories of werner dragging me up that route, i climbed so slow he said i climbed like a turtle. but i was one of the only guys around to belay,not many around in winter back then.
and i think he could tell i really wanted to learn
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Author's Reply
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Nov 1, 2013 - 01:16am PT
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come on down, ill set a brother up!
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Mimi
climber
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That crag would be a destination area all on it's own!
You got that right, Jaybro. What a crag! One of the finest selection of quality stout routes anywhere.
Thanks for the great photos.
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A5scott
Trad climber
NE Philly, PA
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Another great thread and TR... thanks Dan!
scott
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Bejeebus,
That all looks soooo desperate, and the buggers in the photos look so composed.
I'd rather have six rounds with Mike Tyson - I'd probably come out in better shape!
The last time I went into a modestly moderate off width/flare I felt like a baby Blue Whale in the birth canal.....funny to watch no doubt, but not to experience.
Steve
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Both of my shoes exploded on midterm.
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2 l l
Sport climber
Rancho Verga, CA
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Mar 13, 2014 - 02:31am PT
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bump
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 13, 2014 - 07:59am PT
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Hey, I was gonna bump, too!
Kismet.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Mar 13, 2014 - 08:59am PT
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Fantastic TR.
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okie
Trad climber
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Mar 13, 2014 - 04:49pm PT
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Love the Gripper, love the Leanie Meanie Donini.
Hate the Midterm, in a good way...
New D, EBC, that chimney exam...I liked those photos of folks negotiating the flake in various ways.
Does anyone do Supplication? That's quality. How about the fisting to the right of it, Application?
Never done Anticipation, need to.
That face move on Blotto is a puzzlement. WTF? You mean I have to FACE climb?
How many of us have had Werner solo over us at this crag? Think he left a footprint on my head.
When is the closure for the 2014 season?
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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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Mar 16, 2014 - 07:37pm PT
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wow ,we,wow,hell yes,,the ratings should go down ,with out all that dirt and liken shissth,,I did have an almost wernerist moment when my partner [short ,cute,german [lidyia???]stopped half way up to let the golden boy pass,,Anticipation ?? 11c,,cant remember,,any way,,nice flashbacks,grascias,,
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Mar 16, 2014 - 07:41pm PT
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If the poison Oak doesn't make you feel humble just about every climb there will.
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Dan McDevitt
Social climber
tioga cliff or fifi buttress
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thanks to those responsible for doing a great job watching the falcons and reopening arch rock! fyi- if doing new demensions u can now do 2 33m raps from the top of the route to the ground (keep an eye out on the way up the route as the 2nd rap is a station over on klemens escape, which is about 20' to the right of the plumb line of new d.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Nice Dan! Back at Arch.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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That's good news about the lifting. Hoping MCR and the Rostrum are next.
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c wilmot
climber
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cool stuff-I lived at the housing at Arch Rock for two NPS trail seasons.
Its a little late now- but if you can get on Trails in Yos (not recommended) you can request to live in the housing next to the bathrooms. its a pretty sweet spot to live
Oh- and anywhere off the road is LOADED with poison oak- assume its there even if the leaves are not. Cant tell you how many climbers I saw walk right through it after a day on the rock
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Good to see you Dan back to Arch with stocked partner!
I met big rattle snake there on the upper part of the trail a week ago, but she rattle to me than she is not against the climbers unless they practice aid on New D.
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Dan McDevitt
Social climber
tioga cliff or fifi buttress
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thanks for the warning about the rattler Alexey, will spread the word.
didnt fall off new d but sure felt sore for a few days after :)
c u guys up there!
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Old bay tree growing back in the base of Gripper/LeanieMeanie after been vandalize at Dog Rock Fire last fall.
Please protect it !
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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This. Is. It.
Thanks to all who shared!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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$$$ - the position at these moves is so wild. So intimidating to look up at that section from the belay the first time you climb it. Pic nails it.
Did this same "crossed jams" move on my first go, nearly hosed myself because I couldn't see to figure out what to do with my feet.
Damn is New Dimensions a stellar climb. Still haven't gotten the last pitch clean. There is one body length in there at about the .75 size that throws me every time.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Keep the pictures and comments coming. I'm loving it!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Y'all are gonna make me cry.
RD
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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May 11, 2015 - 10:45am PT
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Long live Arch
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
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May 11, 2015 - 02:44pm PT
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Used those Big Friends on GRE yet, Dan? Looks like the second ascent of a life-time. Elliott really loved the Wide!
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Dan McDevitt
Social climber
tioga cliff or fifi buttress
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May 11, 2015 - 07:32pm PT
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nice shots le bruce
bruce morris-hav'nt been brave enough to do GRE. looks way burly. hey what does gre mean or stand for?
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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May 11, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
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Graduate Record Exam.
lebruce, I like to belay there too cuz you get a nice ledge and you can do it in 2 pitches. not sure anyone else did that.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 15, 2015 - 11:11am PT
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Dan sent to me long time ago two beautiful photos of GRE and The Bin
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
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May 15, 2015 - 01:29pm PT
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Elliott Robinson did say that as horrendous as GRE looks standing underneath it, the crux itself has overhead pro. So you can suffer safely? I like that understated rating, "5.11". That covers a wide range of territory as far as OW is concerned!
What about that horrible looking under-cling thing to the left? Why doesn't anyone get on that?
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Jun 15, 2016 - 04:33pm PT
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another great one with some sack shrinking photos
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Jun 15, 2016 - 06:04pm PT
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excellent photo!
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